Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Black Ice BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly)

BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly)
Developed by Tim Heng, previous manager of Taylor Creek Fly Shop, the BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly) is one of the most effective little mayfly/midge imitations ever. A thorax style bead with just the right amount of material - deadly.
Great early and late in the season.
The BLM was awarded the fly of the year in 2002 by Flyfisherman Magazine.
Shown TMC 3769 Size 16
Black Ice BLM Nymph
(A Tim Heng BLM Adaptation)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 3769 or TMC 3761
Size: 14 ~ 20
Thread: Black 8/0 UNI-Thread
Tail: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Abdomen: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Rib: Gun Metal Blue X-Small Ultra-Wire
Thorax: Black Bead
Shellback & Legs: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Friday, December 11, 2009

An Interesting Website

In my stumbling around the internet I found an interesting website. I have seen a couple of these programs on Public Television and lo and behold there are three seasons worth of fly tying programs to watch.
The "Fly Tying The Anglers Art" programs are presented by Washington State University at the following url: http://kwsu.org/Offers/FlyTying.aspx
I also have the link on my "Blogs of Interest List".

Monday, November 30, 2009

LOJ's Red Quill

This pattern works for Red Quill and Mahogany hatches.
JARQ 3 Mono-Wing (Just Another Red Quill)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 102Y
Size: 13 ~ 21
Thread: Orange 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Tail: Light Pardo Coq de Leon Whiting Tailing Fibers
Abdomen: Red Quill Stripped Hackle Quill
Parachute Wing: White Float-Vis
Thorax: Tying Thread
Hackle: Brown Whiting Saddle Hackle
Head: Tying Thread
Other: Water-based Head Cement, Super Glue**
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

One Of The Best Adult Midge Patterns Around!

An Oldie but Goody!
Bill's Black Adult Midge V1
Originated By: Bill Fitzsimmons
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101
Size: 18 ~ 24
Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffith
Abdomen: Tying Thread
Wing: Light Dun or White Float-Vis
Thorax: Peacock Herl For Sizes 18~20 and
Tying Thread For Sizes 22~24
Hackle: Dyed Dark Dun Whiting Saddle Hackle
Oversized by 1 Size e.g. Hook Size 20 = Hackle Size 18
Optional: Loon Water Based Head Cement
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

A Midge/Chironomid Pattern

In the summer I fish this pattern in lakes using sizes 12 ~ 16 using the “Antero Method” e.g. under a either a larger dry indicator or a THINGAMABOBBER.
Click on the picture for an enlarged view.
Black Rainbow Chironomidge
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 200
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: Iron Gray 8/0 UNI Thread
Body: Black Rainbow #8089 Gϋtermann 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread
Head: Jet Black 11/0, #00081 or Black 11/0, #02014 or Black 15/0 #42014 Mill Hill Glass Bead
Head Cement: Brush on Super Glue and/or Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement
Note:
I purchase the Mill Hill Glass Beads at either a Fabric or a Hobby Store.
Black Rainbow #8089 Gϋtermann 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread is available at Jo-Ann Fabrics and Craft Store.
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Thursday, October 01, 2009

Baetis Time Again!


Baetis time is here again!
When fishing, I fish this fly as a dropper or the bottom fly in a two fly set-up. I have much better luck when using 6X or 7X tippet. Be prepared to lose some flies as the fish critters take this fly with gusto!
Pheasant Tail Baetis
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #075
Size: 18 ~ 20
Thread: Brown 14/0 Gordon Griffith
Tail: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Rib: Gun Metal Blue X-Small Ultra Wire
Wingcase: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Thorax: Olive Brown Hare-Tron Dubbing
Legs: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Head: Tying ThreadOptional: Loon Water Based Head Cement
Tyers Notes:
Use a Ringneck Pheasant secondary tail feather.
Pheasant tail feather barbules used on this pattern have no brown on the barbules.
The barbules are a "Natural Olive and Black Speckled."
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Tuesday, September 01, 2009

A New "Twist" On An Oldie But Goodie!!!

Here is a different “twist” on the oldie but goodie Red Fox Squirrel Hair Nymph (RFSHN) from the fertile mind and nimble fingers of Dave Whitlock.
A number of years ago I dropped a fly box in the “crick” and thoroughly soaked the flies. When I got home I put the flies away to dry and promptly forgot about them. I re-discovered them when re-arranging my fishing and fly tying stuff. The hooks were good (read not rusted) but the beads and wire had tarnished. I kind of liked the muted color combination.
This past spring I proceeded to see if they would still work. I fish them solo and in tandem with a newly tied pattern with shiny Gold Bead and Wire. In fishing of this tarnished/dull pattern compared to a shiny pattern, the tarnished/dull has out fished the shiny by a margin of appx 4 to 1. It didn’t seem to matter whether it was the lead or anchor fly in a two nymph rig. This is probably due to the fact that the fish have seen a lot of shiny beads and ribs. This is just my opinion but it makes sense to me!
I found some old beads and wire that I have had 20+ years in my fly tying stuff that were dull and proceeded to use them. The wire spools are wooden and old beads may have been brass as opposed to being gold plated. I have also have dulled the shine on Gold Plated Cyclops beads by soaking them in red wine vinegar. The longer I soaked them the duller they became until they reached the point as shown in the fly picture. Click on the picture for an enlarged view.
I have also tied this pattern using the combination of a Brown Olive Cyclops Bead with Brown Ultra Wire. The results of which have been exceptionally good.
Shown TMC 3769 Size 16, Tarnished/Dull Gold Bead, Tarnished/Dull Gold Wire Rib  And Optional Legs
BH Fox Squirrel Nymph V1
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 3769, TMC 3761, Dai-Riki #075
Size: 16 ~ 22
Thread: Brown 8/0 UNI Thread
Tail: Fox Squirrel Back Guard Hairs
Optional Underbody: Lead Wire
Abdomen: Fox Squirrel Belly Dubbing
Rib: Tarnished/Dull Gold Wire (If Available) or Brown Ultra Wire
Thorax: Fox Squirrel Back
Optional Legs: Natural Dark Brown Speckled Hen Back
Head: Tarnished/Dull Gold Bead (If Available) or Brown Olive Cyclops Bead
Optional: Water-based Head Cement and Super Glue
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Antero Special V1 (Crippled Callibaetis Emerger)





Antero Special V1
(Crippled Callibaetis Emerger)

By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Dun Gordon Griffiths 14/0
Tail: Tan Ostrich Herl Tips
Rib: Black Small Ultra Wire
Abdomen Shellback: Natural Mottled Bustard Thin Skin
Abdomen: Brown Mini Ostrich Herls
Thorax: Gray 2mm Foam
Wing & Shellback: Gray 2mm Foam
Hackle: Grizzly Hackle
Optional: Water-based Head Cement
Send me an email for tying instructions.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Cross Eye Trigger Minnow

This pattern has proven highly successful for me especially in the fall.
Cross Eye Trigger Minnow
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 9395
Size: 2 ~ 6
Thread: Olive Danville Flat Waxed Nylon
Body: Shimmer Gold Estaz
Wing: Grizzly Olive Variant Rabbit Magnum Zonker Strip
Collar: Olive Variant Cross-Cut Rabbit Zonker Strip
Trigger: Red 1/64 Holographic Mylar Motion
Head: Sprit River Cross Eye Cone e/w Red Eyes
Optional: Zap-A-Gap Super Glue and Water-Based Head Cement
For tying instructions email me.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Hecoma Ranch Fishing 08/01/09




Hecoma Ranch Aug 01 2009
Bob Janiga, Randy Kulig, Kurt Rhymestine, Cliff and CJ Jurgens, Fred Ferganchik and I spent a great day of fishing at Hecoma Game Ranch. We all met for breakfast in Cedaredge before we got down to the business of fishing. By the time we started fishing the temperature was hot but the fishing wasn’t on fire. At lunchtime we took a break and Fred entertained us with a sightseeing and historical tour of both the Hecoma Game Ranch and Coury Ranch which was very informative and the sights were spectacular.
Bob Janiga (Rome, New York), Randy Kulig (Ohio, New York), Kurt Rhymestine, (Herkimer, New York) are from central New York and are excellent fisherman. This type of lake/pond fishing was new to them but they caught on fast.
Note: click on the images for the full size picture.
The “gang” from New York and LOJ
(left to right) Kurt, Bob, Randy and me.

Cliff Jurgens
CJ’s First
My son Cliff and Fred are at the novice level. My grandson CJ is a beginner and experienced his first successful fly fishing trip. Kurt especially wanted to catch a large cutthroat which he accomplished late Saturday afternoon.
This Snake River Cutthroat was the largest fish caught on Aug 1.
Kurt & Fred with Kurt’s Big ’un
Kurt’s Big ‘un

The bull elk below are the three bulls that watched us fish in the video that Jay Zimmerman shot in May.
They have really grown, eh?
Two Big Boys
The "REALLY BIG BOY!!"
If you want more information or schedule a fishing eperience at Hecoma Game Ranch contact me vie email at; lojbugstuff@gmail.com or click on the contact me gadget.
Larry O Jurgens

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

General Purpose Hi-Vis Mayfly Emerger

This general purpose emerger pattern has worked for me when there is no discernible hatch taking place.
When fishing this pattern apply fly floatant to the wing only. Use powder to dry the abdomen and thorax.

Hi-Vis Mayfly Emerger
By Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2487
Size: 12 ~ 24
Thread: Dark Brown Gordon Griffith 14/0
Shuck: Copper Brown Antron
Rib: Fine Lagartun Copper Wire
Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Parachute Wing: White Float-Vis
Hackle: Grizzly
For tying instructions email me.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Polly Rosborough Black Drake Swimmer Nymph

This is an adaptation of the late Ernest Herbert “Polly ”Rosborough's Black Drake Swimmer Nymph/Emerger pattern. I tie this pattern in the following colors, black (as shown), olive and dark brown.
The black pattern in sizes 14 and 16 has been the most successful pattern for me.
Swimmer nymphs are best suited for ponds, lakes, and to the slower flows of spring creeks and tail-waters. I purchased the pattern from Dan Baileys Fly Shop in Livingston MT back in the mid 1970s.


Black Drake Swimming Nymph
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 200 or 2312
Size: 12 ~ 22
Thread: Black 8/0 UNI-Thread or UTC 70
Optional Underbody: .010” or .015” Lead or Non-Lead Wire
Tail: Natural Mallard Flank Fibers
Abdomen & Thorax: Dark Gray Dubbing or Wool Yarn
Wing: Black Marabou Fibers or Ostrich Herl
Optional Legs: Natural Mallard Flank Fibers
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Black Hard Head Cement and Super Glue
For tying instructions email me.

Tuesday, July 07, 2009

A Great "Spider" Pattern From Steve Johnson

This is a very productive spider pattern from Steve Johnson aka "Mr. Wet Fly."
The beauty of this fly is it is a generic fly pattern and an easy tie plus it catches fish.
Give it a try!
This is an old English Pattern, per Steve Johnson

Peacock Spider
By: Steve Johnson
Source: Front Range Anglers Clinic
Hook: TMC 100
Size: 14
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Fly Master
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Medium Dun Hen
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the mid-point of the hook shank.
~ Tie in the peacock herls (1 ~ 3 herls) and the hackle by the tips.
~ Make 1 wrap of the peacock herls behind the hackle and wrap to 1 eye length behind the
hook eye.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Jay Ziimerman's Backstabber Leech #6












This pattern of Jay Zimmerman's was originally designed and tied as a "Carp" fly, but has proven to be an excellent Bass fly also.
Due to my sacrilege it has also proven an excellent pattern for "Trout" in both stillwater and moving water environments.    ~ LO Jurgens

Back Stabber #6 Leech (A Carp Fly)
Hook: Dai-Riki 810 Sizes 4~6 /TMC 8089 Size 12
or Gamakatsu SL45 Size 4~10
Thread: Black 6/0
Dumbbell Eyes: Silver 1/8” Spirit River Dazl-Eyes
Tail: Black Marabou
Body: Dark Stone Whitlock SLF Dubbing
Hackle: Dark Brown Whiting Utility Saddle Hackle

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Colorado Caddis An Oldie & Goodie!

This Caddis pattern is an oldie but a goodie that was originally tied by Bob Good of Denver Colorado, per Terry Hellekson’s book Popular Fly Patterns, Published 1977. I have been fishing caddis patterns for the past two days and the "Colorado Caddis" was the top producer as the “dropper” fly using a dry and dropper setup.







Colorado Caddis
Originator: Bob Good, Denver, Colorado
Source: Terry Hellekson, Popular Fly Patterns, Published 1977
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Mustad 3906/3906B
Size: 8 ~ 16
Thread: Black 6/0
Thread Substitute: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Shellback: Natural Gray Goose Quill Slip
Body: Pale Yellow Dubbing or Wool Yarn
Body Substitutes: Light Cahill Superfine Dubbing or Buttercup #540 Aunt Lydia’s Rug Yarn
Legs: Black Hen Hackle (1½ ~ 2½ Sizes Oversized)
Head: Thread
Head Cement: Lacquer (Original)
Head Cement Substitute: Black Hard Head & Vinyl or Flex Cement
Tying Instructions
~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
~ Tie in the shellback material by the “narrow” end.
~ Tie in the yarn if using yarn for the body and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Note ~ Pre-treat the quill section with vinyl or flex cement for durability.
~ Return the thread to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
~ Dub or wrap the body material yarn to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
~ If using yarn tie in and cut off the excess.
~ Tie in and wrap the hackle 2~4 turns. Number of wraps is tyers choice.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Cut a “V” in the hackle fibers on top of the hook shank.
~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off the excess.
Note: “Stroke” the hackle fibers down for a more realistic looking legs.
~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
~ Optional: Apply Black Hard Head to the whip-finish to provide the “classic” look.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Micro Caddis

This caddis pattern is an effective pattern on small freestone creeks and in the evening when the "Evening Caddis Hatch" is going full blast. At last light and later it will be a good idea to tightly hang on to your rod as trout will sometimes violently attack this fly!



Micro Caddis V1265
By: Larry Jurgens
Hook: TMC 102Y
Size: 17 ~ 21
Tying Thread: Olive Dun, UNI-Thread 8/0
Abdomen: Burnt Toast, #942-1265 Sulky® 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread
Wing: Tan Float-Vis
Hackle: Dun Grizzly Whiting Saddle 1 Size Smaller (e.g. Hook Size #19 = Hackle Size #22)
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
~ Start the abdomen thread at the 1/3 hook shank point.
~ Wrap an even thread base to the hook bend and return to the 1/3 hook shank point.
~ Tying Note: Keep the thread twisted tight on the return for segmentation.
~ Whip-finish with 2 ~ 3 wraps and cut off the abdomen thread.
~ Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
~ Tying Note: Be sure to overwrap the abdomen whip-finish.
~ Optional; Apply Hard As Hull head cement to the abdomen for sheen and durability.
~ Tie in the wing material. Trim the wing even with the hook bend.
~ Tie in the hackle and wrap to 1 hook eye length behind the hook eye.
~ Whip-finish with a minimum number of wraps.
~ Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Red Butt Flash Buzzer

Give this pattern a try while the "Chironomids" are doing their thing!

Go to "Front Range Anglers Fishing Report" in the Links Of Interest for an excellent article about stillwater fishing with chironomids by Rob Kolanda!!!!



Red Butt Flash Buzzer
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 100
Size: 16~22
Thread: White UTC 70 & Black 8/0 UNI-Thread
Abdomen: 1/4 Red & 3/4 Black Flashabou
Wingcase: Pheasant Tail
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Gills: White Poly Yarn or Super Floss
Optional: Super Glue or Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement and Water-based Head Cement

Tying Instructions
1~~ Start the white thread behind hook eye and wrap the hook shank to above the hook barb and back with a smooth threadbase.
2 ~~ Tie in 1 strand of Red Flashabou and wrap to 1 or 2 turns past the end of the thread base and back to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
3 ~~ Tie in 1 strand of Black Flashabou and wrap a tapered abdomen to above the hook point and to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
4 ~~ Whip-finish the white thread with 3~4 wraps and cut off the white thread.
~~~ Optional: Apply Super Glue or HaH to the abdomen and let dry before continuing.
5 ~~ Start the black thread wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
6 ~~ Tie in a 4 ~ 8 Pheasant tail barbules for the wing case.
7 ~~ Tie in 1 or 2 Peacock herls by the tip ends for the thorax.
8 ~~ Tie in a strand gill material at the 1/4 hook shank point and use figure 8 wraps making a spinner type wing.
9 ~~ Wrap the Peacock herl thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~~~ Be sure to wrap over and under wing tie in point.
10 ~~ Pull the wing case over the thorax. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 ~~ Wrap and whip-finish a small head.
12 ~~ Optional: Apply water to the whip-finish.
13 ~~ Cut the gill material to form short gills. The gill should extend 1 ~ 2 hook eye lengths beyond the thorax.


Go to "Front Range Anglers Fishing Report" in the "Links Of Interest" for an intersting article about stillwater fishing and chironomids.

Sunday, June 07, 2009

The Halfback by Nathan Streeter

The Halfback and The Fullback
by Nathan Winter Streeter
Excerpted from Fly Tyer Magazine, August, 1981
This pair of flies is quite popular in the Rocky Mountain area and especially on the North Platte River. The flies were developed by the owner of the Black Hills Fly Company Route 4, Box 640, Gillette, WY 82720 by Nathan Streeter.

QUOTE
“I have experimented with my own personal variations of the Halfback and have discovered five important characteristics that contribute to the fly's attractiveness to the large trout in the Platte.
1) The Halfback is normally tied on one of the two Mustad streamer hooks…79580, and 9672. The 79580 is a longer (4X Long) hook than the 9672 (3X Long) hook. The latter should be used for maximum effectiveness.
2) The head should never be tied too long.
3) The tail should never be tied longer than half the length of the hook shank.
4) The hackle should never be much longer than the distance from the hook shank to the point. If it looks too long, it can be cut off evenly to the right length and it won't harm the fly's ef­fectiveness. As a matter of fact, some Platte River fishermen prefer clipped hackle on their Halfbacks and Fullbacks. Personally I don't believe it makes a difference.
5) Most important of all, the body should never be too thin. The body should have ''body". It should be thick and full. Without this characteristic, you might as well be fishing with a bare hook. The chances are, you prob­ably won't catch anything.
In short, the fly should look like the thickest, biggest, fattest, juiciest morsel of a nymph a trout ever clamped its jaws on.” ~ Nathan Streeter
UNQUOTE


Nathan Streeter’s Halfback
“The Original Halfback”
By: Nathan Streeter
Source: Fly Tyer Magazine (August 1981)
Hook: TMC 5263 (Original was tied on Mustad 9672 hooks)
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Size: 4 ~ 12
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Flymaster
Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Optional Underbody: Black Yarn and/or Lead Wire
Rear and Front Body: Peacock Herl
Rear and Front Hackle: Brown Saddle
Rear Half Shell Back: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Head: Tying Thread

Note: This fly should be tied thick and fat, e.g., a juicy morsel. This fly probably best represents a Dobsonfly Larva aka Hellgrammite, or a Dragonfly Nymph. It doesn’t seem to matter to the fish what is “supposed” to mimic but they have liked it for over 30 years that I have been tying and using it.

Step ~ Tying Instruction
1 ~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
2 ~ Optional: Wrap a lead wire underbody and cover with thread and cement the wraps.
3 ~ Tie in a fairly large bunch of Pheasant tail barbules above the hook point for the tail and the shellback.
~~ Tail length equals the hook gape.
4 ~ Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
5 ~ Return the thread to in front of the folded barbules.
6 ~ Optional; Tie in the underbody yarn material.
7 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~ Note: The hackle barbules should be slightly longer than the hook gape.
8 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
9 ~ Move the thread to the middle of the hook shank.
10 ~ Optional; Wrap the yarn underbody material from step 6 to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye.
~~~ Tie in and cut off excess and return the thread to the hook shank mid-point.
11 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to the middle of the hook shank. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to the middle of the hook shank and tie in and cut off excess.
13 ~ Cut off the hackle fibers on the top of the body or divide and force the hackle fibers down evenly on both sides of the body. Trim the hackle barbules even with the hook point if required.
14 ~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off excess
15 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~~ Note: The hackle barbules should be 1½ times the hook gape, e.g., dry fly style.
16 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
17 ~ Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
18 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
19 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye and tie in and cut off excess.
20 ~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
21 ~ Optional; Apply water based head cement to the head/whip-finish.
22 ~ Trim all the hackle on the bottom of the fly even with the hook point.

For a step by step tutorial go to Charlies Flybox@; http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/detail.cfm
Or
Alaska Flyfishers@; http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=2767937892661308465#_top

Friday, May 29, 2009

The "Original" Nathan Streeter Fullback


Nathan Streeter's Fullback “The Original”
By Nathan Streeter
Source: Fly Tyer Magazine (August 1981)
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #075 (Original was tied on Mustad 7948A Hooks)
Size: 8 ~ 20
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Flymaster
Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Optional Underbody: Black Yarn and/or Lead Wire
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Brown
Shell: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Head: Tying Thread

Note: This fly should be tied thick and fat, e.g., a juicy morsel. This fly probably best represents a Dobsonfly Larva aka Hellgrammite, or a Dragonfly Nymph. It doesn’t seem to matter to the fish what is “supposed” to mimic but they have liked it for over 30 years that I have been tying and using it.

Step ~ Tying Instruction
1 ~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
2 ~ Optional: Wrap a lead wire underbody and cover with thread and cement the wraps.
3 ~ Tie in a fairly large bunch of Pheasant tail barbules above the hook point for the tail and the shellback.
~~ Tail length equals the hook gape.
4 ~ Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
5 ~ Return the thread to in front of the folded barbules.
6 ~ Optional; Tie in the underbody yarn material.
7 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~ The hackle barbules should be slightly longer than the hook gape.
8 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
9 ~ Move the thread to behind the hook eye.
10 ~ Optional; Wrap underbody wool to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
13 ~ Cut off the hackle fibers on the top of the body or divide and force the hackle fibers down evenly on both sides of the body. Trim the hackle barbules even with the hook point if required.
14 ~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off excess
15 ~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
16 ~ Optional; Apply water based head cement to the head/whip-finish.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Bead Head Fullback

The Halfback and Fullback Flies
My first encounter with these two flies was in the late 1970s when I was working in Casper, Wyoming. While working there I fished the Trappers Route Section of the North Platte River a minimum of 2 to 3 times a week. These two patterns along with my Trappers Route Special (an adaptation of a Platte River Special) and my Trappers Route Muddler accounted for approximately 90% of the fish caught.
The following is excerpted from the article; The Halfback and The Fullback by Nathan Winter Streeter in Fly Tyer Magazine, Volume Four Issue Two, August 1981.
The Halfback and Fullback are two of the best trout flies for fishing in the Rocky Mountain Region od the United States. They have proven effective in all types of fishing situations from catching creek chubs in warm, still creeks to landing ten pound browns in cool rushing rivers. They have been trolled in lakes and fished through ice, but the running trout streams are their homes. They should be a part of every trout fisherman's fly box. ~ Nathan Streeter

I added the bead a few years back and it didn't effect the pattern negatively. Not sure if it is a "real" improvement or not but it works good for me. ~LoJ


Bead Head Fullback
By Larry O Jurgens
Source: A Nathan Streeter Fullback Adaptation
Hook: TMC 3769
Size: 6 ~ 18
Thread: Dark Brown 6/0 UNI Thread Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbs
Rib: Green Ultra Wire
Body Peacock Herl
Hackle: Brown Whiting Saddle
Shell Back: Pheasant Tail Barbs
Head: Black Tungsten or Metal Bead

Tying Instructions
1 -- Slide the bead onto the hook shank. Bead size is tyers choice.
2 -- Wrap a thread base behind the hook eye that is tight to the bead. Whip finish and cut off.

---- Optional; Coat these thread wraps with Super Glue or Head Cement
3 -- Slide the bead onto the “bead” threadbase.
4 -- Start the thread behind the bead and wrap a thread base to above the hook point.
5 -- Tie in the tail and shellback material. The tail should equal the body length.
6 -- Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
7 -- Tie in the hackle feather, rib wire and 4 ~ 10 Peacock herls.

---- Tyers Note: The body on this pattern should be thick and short.
8 -- Return the thread to behind the bead.
9 -- Wrap the Peacock herls with the rib wire creating a Peacock herl rope.
10 -- Wrap the Peacock herl rope to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 -- Palmer wrap the hackle to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 -- Cut the hackle fibers even with the peacock herl body on the top of the hook shank.
13 -- Pull the shellback material over the body. Tie in and cut off excess.
14 -- Whip finish behind the bead with a minimum number of wraps.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

A Handy Bead Sizing Chart

This chart is a "generalization" bead sizing chart.
You as a fly-tyer select the bead size that the finished fly has the appearance that best appeals to you.



LET YOUR IMAGINATION BE YOUR GUIDE!

Friday, May 15, 2009

An eeZee Caddis Pattern





Olive eeZee Caddis
By: Larry O Jurgens
Source: An adaptation of Tim Fox’s Poopah
Hook: TMC 2488
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Rib: Gold Wire

Abdomen: Dark Olive Micro Ultra Chenille

Sunday, May 03, 2009

A Streamer Pattern For All Seasons

Olive Wounded Minnow V1
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 5262 or TMC 5263
Size: 2 ~ 10
Thread: Olive Danville Flat Waxed Nylon
Body: Pearl Olive Estaz
Wing: Grizzly Olive Variant Rabbit Strip
Collar: Grizzly Olive Variant Cross-Cut Rabbit Strip
Trigger: Red 1/64 Holographic Mylar Motion
Head: Black Spirit River Cone Head
Optional: Zap-A-Gap CA+ and Water-Based Head Cement


Tying Instructions
Slide the cone on to the hook shank.
Wrap a threadbase behind the hook eye so that the cone head is tight on the hook shank. Cut off the thread. Optional, Zap-A-Gap the threadbase.
Move the cone to behind the hook eye over the threadbase.
Start the thread behind the cone and wrap a threadbase to above the hook barb.
Tie in the wing material above the hook barb. Cut the zonker tail to 1 ½ times the hook shank length.
Tie in the body material and wrap to appx 3 hook eye lengths behind the cone.

Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the wing material forward to appx 3 hook eye lengths behind the cone.
Cut the hair off of the zonker strip at the tie in point.

Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the trigger material (1 ~ 3 strands) on each side of the hook shank.
Tie in the collar material and make 2 wraps behind the cone and force the last collar wrap into the cone.

Tie in and cut off excess.
Trim the hair on the bottom the hook shank so the body shows.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Cut the trigger Mylar to length of your choice.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

It's Pike Time


Pike Devil
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #810 or Mustad 3366
Size: 2 ~ 3/0
Thread: White Size A Monocord
Flash: Pearl Krystal Flash
Wing: White Schlappen
Hackle: Red & White Cross Cut Rabbit Strips
Eyes: Black 3/8” Spirit River Deep Sea Eyes
Eye Pupils: Red or Pearl Stick-On or Molded EyesOptional Head Cement: Super Glue
Tyers Note:
Epoxy the eye pupils into the “Deep Sea” eye sockets for durability.
Fishing Note:
By using Spirit River Deep Sea Eyes this fly can be cast and fished easily with a 6 weight rod.
Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in the eyes on top of the hook shank using “X and locking” wraps.
Optional; Super Glue the thread wraps to keep the eyes from turning on the hook shank.
Tie in 4~8 strands, doubled, of Krystal Flash on the top of the hook shank and overwrap to above the hook point.
Tie in 2~4 wing feathers on each side of the hook shank.
Tie in the feathers so that they splay out for better movement.
Tie in a Red cross cut rabbit strip and make 1~2 wraps. Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the rabbit strip so that when wrapped the hair will flow towards the rear
Tie in a White cross cut rabbit strip and wrap to behind the eyes and place between the eyes.
Tie in the rabbit strip so that when wrapped the hair will flow towards the rear
Cut the hair off of the hide at the tie in point and tie off in front of the eyes.
Wrap a substantial “nose” in front of the eyes and whip-finish.
Optional; Apply Super Glue to the whip-finish/nose.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Attention!!

All of the fly patterns etc are public domain. Feel free to copy and use as you see fit.
If you do tie one of the fly patterns shown please email me at
LoJ.bugstuff@gmail.com
and let me know about your results.
Copy and enjoy!
THANX
LoJ

Saturday, April 04, 2009

The Mothers Day Hatch Is Fast Approaching Give This A Try



Olive eeZee Caddis Emerger
By: Larry O Jurgens
Source: An adaptation of Tim Fox’s Poopah
Hook: TMC 2488
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Abdomen: Dark Olive Micro Ultra Chenille
Wing: Natural Gray/Brown CDC Fibers
Thorax: Peacock Herls
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Water-based Head Cement

Abdomen Preparation:
1 - Cut as ½ as many 2” pieces of Ultra Chenille as the flies that you are going to tie for the upcoming hatch.
2 - Using a butane lighter carefully taper both ends of the ultra chenille.
3 - Cut the 2” piece in half this will give you two abdomens.

Step - Tying Instructions
1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap threadbase to above the hook barb and return to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps
2 - Tie in the abdomen material. The abdomen should be 1½ to 2 times the hook shank length.
3 - Tie in 2 ~ 3 CDC feathers, with the quill cut out, with 2 wraps and pull to length. The wing length should not extend beyond the abdomen. Tie in and cut off excess.
4 - Tie in 1 ~ 2 peacock herls and wrap to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
5 - Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
6 - Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.