---- LoJ's Ramblins' ----

Stoneflies

2012-01-28T19:52:00.000-07:00

In doing some research about stoneflies I stumbled onto an informative and interesting website, The Aquatic Insects of Gunnison County, Colorado at URL: http://www.gunnisoninsects.org/index.html

Check it out.

For tying instructions for the patterns email me.

I have been tying these patterns for several years and they have been productive for me.

I'm Baaaack!

2012-01-20T17:00:00.000-07:00

Well, it’s been a long time since I have posted anything on the blog. I was busy with the annual “Bling Chicken Chase” which turned out to be a huge disaster this past season.

The area that my infamous Gang of Six hunts in Kansas was hit by a major drought. One of the farmers whose lands, appx 20+ sections owned or leased, we hunt told us that his area of Southwest Kansas only recorded 1½” of moisture from 12/01/2009 until 11/01/2011. If it wasn’t for pivot irrigation the area might have looked like it was the 1930’s Dust Bowl. Even the CRP areas were what you would call Apache grass, e.g., a patchy here, a patchy over there, etc., etc., etc.

As it was the infamous Gang of Six plus 4 dogs only produced 15 to 20 birds in effective shotgun range. Through our very effective(?) shootin’ we managed to put 4 “Bling Chickens” in the ~~dirt~~ dust in two days. We then proceeded to drown our sorrows in other indulgences and decided to leave what few “Bling Chickens” were left for next years seed. But just like the Broncos “wait until next year”.

Now on to fishin' stuff!
The following has been a well producing pattern for me (in spring, summer & fall) and my winter fishing friends this winter and last. Give it a try as most fish haven't seen this pattern yet.

For the recipe and tying instructions send me an email with "Pattern Request"on the Subject line.

THANX for your support.

Another Baetis/BWO Pattern

2011-10-14T11:10:00.001-06:00

Now that “Baetis Time” is upon us here is another Baetis/BWO pattern.

Give this pattern a try (YOU can't have too many Baetis/BWO patterns) it has served me well.

When tied in the appropriate sizes it is an excellent Baetis/BWO as well as a General Purpose Mayfly pattern.

Click on the picture for a larger view.
Remember you can highlight and copy both the large and small pictures.

Attention!!!

2011-09-16T11:09:00.000-06:00

I appreciate ALL COMMENTS be they "POSITIVE or NEGATIVE" but I will no longer post comments from any "anonymous" source.

My position is if you do not have the "stones" to identify yourself your input is invalid to me and to others.

I appreciate and want to thank those that DO identify themselves as your information is valid. I may not agree but I WILL POST THE COMMENT!!!

I also will delete all language that I think is inappropriate for public viewing.
It's my blog and I am the censor!!! I am definitely not a prude but my view is foul language is for personal interaction and not public consumption over the internet.

Thanks For Your Support
Larry O Jurgens

One of my "Old" 1960s patterns

2011-09-03T17:16:00.000-06:00

This is the modern version of the original “Cutthroat Candy” pattern that I developed in the 1960’s for fishing the creeks and lakes in the Derby Flattops area. The United States Congress designated this area the “Flat Tops Wilderness” (map) in 1975 and it now has a total of 235,214 acres. All of this wilderness is located in Colorado and is managed by the Forest Service.This pattern is my #1 pattern when fishing the forks of Derby Creek along with several others that I fished. It is also effective on the more accessible creeks feeding into Stillwater Reservoir and the Bear River outlet clear down to Sweetwater Reservoir (aka Yampa Reservoir). My “Original Recipe” used the following materials; Mustad 94840 hook, Black tying thread, Barred Lemon Wood Duck tail, Red four strand rayon floss for the abdomen, Muskrat dubbing for the thorax, Grizzly hackle and Yellow Bucktail for the post indicator (for visibility) and the Trude type wing.Even though I call the pattern “Cutthroat Candy” it also works great for Rainbows, Browns, and Brookies! ~ Larry O Jurgens

Cutthroat Candy

Hook: TMC 100

Size: 12 ~ 16

Thread: Light Yellow 6/0 Danville Fly Master

Tail: Barred Lemon Wood Duck

Abdomen: Red Danville’s Flat Waxed Nylon

Indicator/Wing: Bright Yellow Polypropylene

Thorax: Light Cahill Superfine Dubbing

Hackle: Grizzly

For tying instructions send me an email.

The Venerable Cooper Bug

2011-07-30T16:24:00.000-06:00

Peacock Cooper Bug

By: Jack Cooper

Tied By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: Hook Is Tyers Choice

Size: 10 ~ 20

Thread: Tan or Black UTC 70

Tail, Shellback and Head: Elk Body Hair, Bleached or Natural

Body: Peacock Herls

Notes:

This is a very old pattern and has been called devil bug, doodle bug etc., etc., depending on the location.

The following is excerpted from The Perfect 10: New England Natives by William G. Tapply at

URL; http://midcurrent.com/flies/the-perfect-10-new-england-natives/

Downeaster Jack Cooper invented this simple deer-hair bug back in the 1930s to catch the brook trout that gobbled caddisflies off the surface of his local ponds. The fly worked so well that Cooper applied for a patent. He was denied on the grounds that his bug was too similar to Orley Tuttle’s Devil Bug. Bob Elliot, for decades the official spokesman for Maine’s angling tourism and an expert on eastern brook trout, gave a handful of Cooper’s bugs to my father (Tap Tapply ~ loj). Dad gave ‘em a try and declared the Cooper Bug his favorite all-round searching fly. We fished them dead-drifted upstream, both to rising trout and to likely pockets. We cast them down and across and twitched ‘em back. We caught a lot of brookies both ways from the streams we floated in Dad’s canoe.

Gary Borger’s Devil Bug is tied differently and is a more complicated tie. To view his tying instructions got to URL; http://www.garyborger.com/flies-and-fly-tying/devil-bug/

I have tied, and tried Gary Borger’s Devil Bug and it works well and it floats a little higher and longer before becoming water saturated.

Tying Instructions

Step 1, Start the thread two hook eye lengths behind the hook eye and wrap a thread base to above the hook barb.

Step 2, Tie in the Elk hair tail, tail length is tyers choice. DO NOT cut off the Elk hair butts.

Step 3, Tie in several peacock herls by their tips in front of the tail tie in point, the number of herls determines the body thickness.

Step 4, Move the thread to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.

Step 5, Twist the peacock herls into a “rope” and wrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.

Step 6, Tie in and cut off excess.

Step7, Pull the Elk hair butt forward and tie in at 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. DO NOT cut off the Elk hair butts.

Step 8, Pull the Elk hair butts up and whip-finish in front of the Elk hair butts.

Step 9, Pull the Elk hair butts forward at a 45° angle and cut off leaving a short head like an Elk Hair Caddis.

Step 10, Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish..

Walter Mitty (Wannabee) Challenge

2011-07-14T16:06:00.000-06:00

Last year (2010) my good friend Jay Zimmerman issued a “Walter Mitty” challenge that tested your skills on catching, landing, photographing and releasing “small” fish. The rules were; the fish had to be smaller than ten inches and you were required to catch five different species on the same day.

I tried my best but didn’t quite make the grade.

So in the words of the immortal “Captain Kirk” I do not believe in a no-win scenario.

I have changed the scenario to be four species. With that in mind here are pictures of my attempt to meet the challenge.

There are only 4 species but “WHAT THE HECK”.

In my mind I met the challenge as the best I could without driving all over the Front Range. The largest is the Yellow Perch that was approximately six inches long.

It was a fun day as I also caught many fish that were too big for the challenge. It is not very often that the fish you catch are too large.

Jay and I are continuing the challenge to y’all for the year 2011.

Email your pix to me at email address loj.bugstuff@gmail.com and I will post them on my blog!

Be sure to check out Jay Zimmerman’s Blog: http://coloradoflyfishingreports.blogspot.com/

We have eased the rule to be four or more species in one day. And most important of all they must be caught using a fly, preferably one you have tied and/or designed!

I know, most of us would rather catch the “Largest” fish but this will be fun.

Put together a Mickey or Minnie Mouse (or?) outfit with a fly and a bubble for your youngest children or grandchildren and head out to a pond that is close to home and let them join in on the fun. I am sure they will glad to spend a few hours fishing with you.

I will post any and all pix of critters, including turtles, frogs etc caught by any youngster under eight years of age.

REMEMBER SMALLER IS BETTER IN THIS CHALLENGE!!!!

Jay and I challenge you to join in the fun!

A Small Productive Streamer Pattern

2011-06-27T16:21:00.002-06:00

This streamer pattern has been very productive for me. I fish it on small streams as you would fish a “BIG” streamer on a larger river. When I fish the Li’l Trigger Sucker on large rivers it fishes best (for me anyway) by working the edges and back-eddies. I fish the Li’l Trigger Sucker with a floating line and to represent an injured minnow trying to survive.

Li’l Trigger Sucker

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 9395, TMC 5262 or TMC 5263

Size: 8 ~ 10

Thread: Olive UTC 70

Body: Root Beer Flat Diamond Braid

Wing: Sculpin Olive Pine Squirrel Strip

Collar: Micro Olive Pine Squirrel Strip or

Olive Pine Squirrel Hair Dubbing Loop

Trigger: Red 1/64 Holographic Mylar Motion

(Simulates A Bleeding Gill Blood Stream)

Head: Olive or Black 5/32” Cone Head

Optional: Super Glue

Note:

I tie this pattern several different ways; see optional Steps 3, 12, 14 & 15.

The optional steps I use the most are Steps 2 & 11 with the Micro Sculpin Olive Pine Squirrel Strip.

At Optional Step 11 tie in a dubbing loop or Micro Sculpin Olive Pine Squirrel Zonker Strip and make two to three wraps for the collar.

Tying Instructions

Step 1 Slide the cone head on to the hook shank.

Step 2 Wrap a threadbase so that the cone head is tight on the hook shank and cut off the thread.

Step 3 Optional: Apply super glue to the threadbase.

Step 4 Slide the cone over the threadbase to behind the hook eye.

Step 5 Restart the thread and wrap a thread base to above the hook barb.

Step 6 Tie in the zonker strip above the hook barb leaving enough to reach the cone head.

Step 7 Tie in the body material in front of the zonker strip.

Step 8 Move the thread to behind the cone head.

Step 9 Wrap the body material to behind the cone head. Tie in and cut off excess.

Step 10 Pull the zonker strip forward and tie in behind the cone.

Step 11 Tie in 1 ~ 2 trigger strands on each side of the hook shank.

Step 12 Optional Step: See Note. Tie in and cut off excess.

Step 13 Whip finish behind the cone head with a minimum number of wraps.

Step 14 Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps.

Step 15 Optional; Cover the thread wraps with dubbing from the Olive Pine Squirrel strip.

Step 16 Cut zonker the tail to equal the hook shank length.

Step 17 Cut the trigger Mylar to length of your choice.

2011-06-03T20:38:00.000-06:00

Sopris Knockdown Trico V1

By: LO Jurgens

Hook: TMC 501 or TMC 101

Size: 18 ~ 22

Thread: Dark Brown 8/0 UNI-Thread

Abdomen: Opal Mirage Tinsel

Wing: White Float-Vis

Thorax: Mahogany Brown Superfine Dubbing

Head: Tying Thread

Adhesive: Super Glue

Optional: Water-Based Head Cement

Note:

I also tie V2 with Black Thread, Black Flashabou and Black Super Fine dubbing.

For a Female Trico I use White thread, Pearl Tinsel and Rusty Brown Super Fine dubbing.

Tying Instructions

1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye.

2 - Tie in the abdomen material and overwrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.

3 - Apply Super Glue to the hook shank from the 1/3 hook shank point to the hook bend.

4 - Wrap the Mirage Tinsel to the start of the hook bend and return to the tie in point.

5 - Tie in and cut off excess.

6 - Tie in the wings using Figure 8 wraps.

7 - For durability apply a drop of Super Glue to the tie-in point.

8 - Dub a substantial thorax using Figure 8 wraps and a minimum of one complete wrap behind the wing.

9 - Wrap and whip-finish a small neat head.

10 - Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the head/whip-finish.

My Attractor Patterns Slide Show

2011-05-08T21:19:00.002-06:00

Please post a comment on the slide show so I can evaluate its worth!
Send me an email if you would like a Recipe and Tying Instructions.

Thanx for your cooperation.
Larry

Four Caddis Patterns

2011-05-01T17:16:00.000-06:00

These patterns have been tested over the last two years by myself and others in various rivers on the Western Slope and Front Range in Colorado. They have also been fished in California and Idaho with good results.
I tie these in a variety of colors and they have all had some success. The Tan, Brown and Chartreuse colors have produced the best results.
Send me an email if you would like the recipes and tying instructions.
Tie some up and let me know how they worked for you!

FOR THE DISCRIMINATING "FLY TYER"

2011-04-17T21:02:00.000-06:00

The Real “Hogans’s Red-Headed Stepchild”
Visit Hogan Brown's website at URL;http://www.hgbflyfishing.com/hgbflyfishing/Trout_Nymphs.html

Hogan's Red Headed Stepchild

By: Hogan Brown of Chico, CA

Source: Hogan Brown’s Website

Hook: TMC 3761, Daiichi D1560, Dai-Riki #060

Size: 12 ~ 18

Head: Red Silver Lined Glass Bead

Thread: Rusty Brown 6/0

Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules

Abdomen: Tying Thread

Rib: Red Ultra Wire

Flashback: Pearl or Opal Tinsel

Thorax: Peacock Herl

Legs: Red Krystal Flash

Tying Instructions written by LoJ

1 -- Slide the bead on the hook shank.

2 -- Tie in the rib wire and the tail barbules behind the bead and overwrap a smooth threadbase to above the hook barb. Tail length equals fly body length.

3 -- Return the thread to behind the bead with a tight twisted thread abdomen threadbase.

4 -- The tight twist will create a segmented appearance.

5 -- Wrap or counter wrap the rib creating 4 ~ 8 “ribs” to the hook shank mid-point.

6 -- Tie in and cut off the excess.

7 -- Tie in the flashback material and 3 ~ 5 peacock herls.

8 -- Tie in 2 to 3 strands of leg material behind the bead.

9 -- Wrap the peacock herls to behind the bead. Make a minimum of 1 wrap in front of the legs. Tie in and cut off excess.

10 -- Pull the flashback material over the thorax.

11 -- Tie in with 2 ~ 3 thread wraps and cut off the excess.

12 -- Whip finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.

13 -- Cut off the excess flashback material.

FOR THE "LAZY" FLY TYER LIKE MYSELF

2011-04-15T18:59:00.004-06:00

This pattern is an adaptation of Hogan Brown “Hogan’s Red Headed Step Child”.

For some interesting and effective patterns visit his website at URL; http://www.hgbflyfishing.com/hgbflyfishing/Welcome.html.

TMC 3761, Size 16, 11/0 Beads

Red Headed Bahstud

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 3761 or TMC 3769

Size: 12 ~ 18

Head: Red Silver Lined, 11/0, CZ114 Bead Treasures Glass Bead

Thorax: Royal Green, 11/0, #03035 Mill Hill Glass Bead

Thread: Rusty Brown UTC 70 Thread

Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules

Abdomen: Tying Thread

Rib: Red Ultra Wire

Legs: Red Krystal Flash

Tying Instructions

1-- Slide the beads onto the hook shank. Apply the head bead first then the thorax bead.

2 -- DO NOT force the beads tight to the hook eye.

3 -- Tie in the tail barbules behind the thorax bead and overwrap to above the hook barb.

4 -- Tail length equals fly body length.

5 -- Return the thread to behind the thorax bead.

6 -- Verify the thread wraps completely cover the tail butts.

7 -- Insert the rib wire into the thorax and the head bead overwrap to one or two thread wraps in front of the hook barb (the tail tie off point).

8 --I tie the rib wire on the top of the hook shank to maintain the hook gape.

9 -- Return the thread to behind the thorax bead.

10 --Verify the thread wraps completely cover the rib wire

11 -- Wrap or counter wrap the rib creating 4 to 8 “ribs” to the hook shank mid-point.

12 -- Tie in and cut off excess.

13 -- Using a minimum number of thread wraps tie a whip-finish and cut off the thread.

14 -- Force the thorax bead slightly to the rear and start the thread between the head and thorax beads.

15 -- Tie in two to three strands of leg material between the head and thorax beads..

16 -- Whip finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.

For the North Park Fisherman

2011-03-01T20:01:00.000-07:00

North Park Skeeter/Midge (aka Montana Midge)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 100 or TMC 101
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Iron Gray UNI-Thread
Abdomen: Natural Canada Goose Biot or Vane
Wing: White or Light Dun Float-Vis
Thorax: Adams Gray Super Fine Dubbing
Hackle: Natural Grizzly
Head: Tying Thread
Notes:
When fishing in North Park especially the Delaney Buttes and Lake John areas there are two very pesky critters that are constantly gathering in gigantic clouds around you. These two critters are the Mosquito that feasts on you and the “Montana Midge” (this is what we called them in bygone days) that you feasted on as they were constantly being breathed in as you are trying to wave them away. As all North Park fishermen well know both species of critters are impervious to any and all repellants.
In my younger days the most effective repellant was smoking a very bad smelling cigar. One of the most effective was the rum soaked “Mississippi Crook” which, if I remember correctly a box of five sold for 25 cents and were about three to four inches long and about one half inch in diameter. The price was the same as a full pack of Camels, Lucky Strikes and etc., cigarettes in those bygone times.
Smoking a pipe with really strong tobacco like “Prince Albert or Amphora” was also an effective repellant. The “Prince Albert” tobacco can was used by my “Dad” for his fly box.
See my blog for this story at URL; http://lojsflytyingbugstuff.blogspot.com/2010/07/old-fly-box.html
With a few nail-punched holes and a few blades of grass they also made a good cricket and/or hopper bait box.
The least effective were the expensive “Cuban” cigars that sold for 20 to 35 cents each, which was far too expensive for use as a critter repellant. If you were “Daddy Warbucks” you could purchase an excellent smoking “Cuban” cigar that could cost you 50 cents or more each. These “expensive” cigars smelled far too good for an insect repellant! What needs to be remembered is that back then smoking was the “norm” and was socially acceptable in all levels of society and the smoking of “Cubans” was a sign of success!
Step - Tying Instruction
1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye.
2 - Wrap a smooth threadbase to above the hook barb.
3 - Tie in the biot and wrap a smooth threadbase forward to the 1/3 hook shank point.
4 - Wrap the biot to the 1/3 hook shank point. A “standing or no standing” rib is tyers choice.
5 - Tie in and cut off excess.
6 - Tie in the wing at the 1/3 hook shank point.
7 - Tie in the hackle at the wing tie in point.
8 - Dub the thorax to one eye length behind hook eye.
9 - Wrap the hackle forward to one hook eye length behind the hook eye.
10 - Tie in the hackle and cut off excess.
11 - Tyers Note: Trim a “V” notch in the hackle on the bottom of the fly to allow the fly to ride low on the water’s surface. Trim the hackle flat on the bottom if you want the fly to ride flush on the film.

Thirteen Steps to Success!

2011-02-28T21:33:00.000-07:00

Click on picture to enlarge

North Park Special Floating Nymph V1

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 2487

Size: 12 ~ 22

Thread: Dark Brown UTC 70

Tail: Dark Pardo Whiting Farms Coq de Leon Tailing Barbules

Abdomen: Dark Brown UNI-Flexx, or Flexi-Floss, etc.

Wingcase: Brown Stone Antron Yarn

Thorax: Gray Tan Hareline Scud Dub

Head: Tying Thread

Step - Tying Instruction

1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye.

2 - Tie in the tail and abdomen materials two eye lengths behind the hook eye and overwrap with a smooth thread base to partway down the hook bend.

3 - Move the thread to 1/3 hook shank point maintaining a smooth thread base.

4 - Wrap the abdomen material to two eye lengths behind the hook eye.

(Stretch and relax the UNI-Flexx as you wrap forward for a tapered effect, see picture.)

5 - Tie in and cut off excess.

6 - Move the thread to the hook shank mid-point.

7 - Tie in the wingcase material.

8 - Dub a thick thorax to one eye length behind the hook eye.

9 - Pull the wingcase material over the thorax.

10 - Tie in behind the hook eye and cut off excess.

11 - Wrap and whip-finish a medium, sized head.

12 - Pick out the thorax material for the “shaggy/leg” look.

13 - Optional; apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Midge Pattern

2011-01-30T11:26:00.003-07:00

Black Biot Midge

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 102Y

Size: 17 ~ 21

Thread: Olive Dun 8/0 UNI Thread

Abdomen: Black Goose/Turkey Vane (See Notes)

Shellback: Black Foam

Wing: White Float-Vis

Thorax: Black Superfine Dubbing

Hackle: Black

Head: Tying Thread

Notes:
I tie this pattern in Black, Gray and Dark Olive.
The "Vane" is on the opposite side of the biot or from a secondary flight feather.

Step: Tying Instructions

1: Start the thread behind the hook eye and overwrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.

2: Tie in the abdomen vane by the tip so there will be a “standing rib” when wrapped.

3: Overwrap to the hook bend. Return the thread to the 1/3 hook shank point.

4: Wrap the abdomen vane to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.

5: Tie in the wing material and overwrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.

Tyers Note: Wing length equals hook shank length.

6: Tie in the shellback foam and overwrap to the hook shank mid-point.

7: Tie in the hackle feather with the shiny side forward at the hook shank mid-point.

8: Dub a thorax from the hook shank mid-point to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

9: Wrap the hackle 3 ~ 4 wraps. Tie in and cut off excess

10: Divide or trim the hackle on the top of the thorax.

11: Pull the shellback over the thorax and tie in 1 hook eye length behind the hook eye.

12: Wrap and whip-finish a small head under the end of the head/shellback foam.

13: Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

14: Cut the head/shellback foam even with the front of the hook eye.

An Old Time Colorado Fly Pattern

2010-12-16T21:40:00.002-07:00

Jonnie Come Lately (Cream Caddis Larvae)

Source: Terry Hellekson Book,

Popular Fly Patterns, Published 1977

Originator: Joe Nelson, Colorado Springs, Colorado

Hook: Mustad 3906/3906B

Size: 14 ~ 18

Thread: Black

Abdomen: Pale Yellow Wool Yarn or Rabbit Dubbing

Rib: Gold Wire

Thorax: Dubbed Muskrat Fur

Head: Tying Thread

Optional Head Cement: Hard as Hull or Black Hard Head

Tying Instructions

Step 1; Start the thread behind the hook eye.

Step 2; Tie in the rib wire and overwrap to above the hook barb.

Step 3; Wrap/dub a tapered abdomen to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Step 4; Wrap or counter wrap the rib wire to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Step 5; Tie in and cut off excess.

Step 6; Move the thread to the ¼ hook shank point.

Step 7; Dub a thick thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Step 8; Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.

Step 9; Optional: Apply Black Hard Head Finish to the head for the “classic” look.

Blinged Chickens

2010-11-30T17:14:00.001-07:00

The blinged chicken hunting has been excellent this year in the wilds of Kansas. So far the weather has been fairly cooperative. As usual there was a brisk wind that sucked up what little moisture there was, really could have used some snow tho’.

Opening weekend was really good but as usual all the dumber ones were dispatched fairly early. As the weekend progressed the smarter ones became wilder as the hours passed.

Our “gang” consisted of six guns and four dogs and we dispatched a good many of those colorful creatures. It is a good thing that we don’t have to hunt the public areas only as there were some very large “war parties” tramping around. Every group that you talked to had a good hunt and a good harvest. The motel where we stay sets up a bird cleaning station complete with running water for the patrons every year. This year the dumpster seemed to contain a good deal more of the leavins’ than the past couple of years.

This past Thanksgiving weekend we also had some excellent hunting and dog work. The weekend was cut short due to a family catastrophe which I will not discuss now.

Our dogs had many points and retrieves which made the trips even more enjoyable. Due to the dog work and the accuracy of some of the shooters we managed to put a good many birds in the freezer.

Due to my macular degeneration in my left (master) eye I am in the process of trying to learn to shoot right-handed after shooting left-handed for sixty one years. It is very challenging and my results are far from successful. After several points my dog Guy pointed a rooster that I managed to put in the dirt (for my first right-handed kill) and he made a perfect to hand retrieve for me all-in-all that made my trip(s). Per my poor math skills I figger that that bird cost me approximately $484 and change, again I re-iterate that it was well worth it.

I will be making at least one more trip to the wilds of Kansas around Christmas time and again, hopefully another in January. I am planning to bring the cost per bird down dramatically!! Wish me luck.

At the very least my supply of pheasant tails has increased dramatically!

Pheasant Season Is Just Around The Corner

2010-10-28T20:05:00.004-06:00

I must apologize for the laxness in the updating of my blog. There is no excuse, BUT, Pheasant and Quail hunting season is approaching. And since I reload for myself and several others I have been busy reloading shotgun shells for our “safaris” to Kansas and it keeps me pretty darn busy.

Pheasant and Quail hunting is a passion for me and rates slightly below fly fishing. Besides I need the feathers for my fly tying attempts. Most of you are cognizant of the fact that Pheasant feathers and Peacock Herl are absolute necessities!

In my opinion they are probably the two most fish attracting materials of ALL TIME!!!

For those of you that reload your own shotgun shells I thought I would pass on a couple of reloading recipes that work exceptionally well for the fanatical crew that accompany me in the pursuit of these fantastic birds in some of the most heinous weather that you can imagine. We hunt in west central and southwest Kansas and the weather runs the gamut from 80° and no wind to below zero with winds in excess of 30 mph.

In spite of these conditions it sho’ ’nuff is fun.

For Pheasants I load mostly #7 shot for opening week end as the critters are not conditioned to the onslaught yet. #7 shot is sometimes hard to locate locally. If you have a problem finding it there are two on-line companies that sell this size they are:

Midway USA @ http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?tabId=1&categoryId=19965&categoryString=9315***11462***9502***19963***&refineSearchKeywordDisplay=lead+shot+%237&refineSearchKeyword=lead+shot+%237

And Gamaliel Shooting Supply @

http://www.gamaliel.com/cart/product.php?productid=3388&cat=403&page=1

From Thanksgiving through the end of January when the birds are wilder I load and hunt progressively larger shot from #6 through #4. Size #6 shot ist the one that I shhot the most.

The following recipes are my favorite 12 Gauge Hunting loads:

Winchester 2 ¾” AA 12 Ga

Shot: 1 1/4oz

Powder: Winchester Super Field

Grains: 29.5

Bushing: #30 = 29.5

Primer: WIN 209

Wad: Claybuster CB1114-12

(Replacement for the discontinued Winchester WAA12F114 For use in 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 oz. loads. Performs best in tapered hulls, Remington or Winchester.)

Velocity: 1330 fps = 907 mph

Pressure: 10,600 psi

Remington Premier 2 ¾” 12 Ga

Shot: 1 1/4oz

Powder: Longshot

Grains: 30.1

Bushing: 30 = 30.1

Primer: WIN 209

Wad: CB-1114-12

Velocity: 1385 fps = 944 mph

Pressure: 10,400 psi

The following recipes are my favorite 20 Gauge Hunting loads:

Winchester 2 ¾” AA 20 Ga

Shot: 1oz

Powder: HS-7

Grains: 24.5

Bushing: #20 = 24.5

Primer: WIN 209

Wad: REM SP20

Velocity: 1220 fps = 831 mph

Pressure: 10,300 psi

Remington Premier 2 ¾” 20 Ga

Shot: 1oz

Powder: Blue Dot

Grains: 24.0

Bushing: #26 = 23.7

Primer: REM 209P

Wad: REM SP20

Velocity: 1220 fps = 831 mph

Pressure: 11,100 psi

Remington Premier 2 ¾” 20 Ga

Shot: 1oz

Powder: HS-6

Grains: 21.6

Bushing: #18 = 21.6

Primer: REM 209P

Wad: CB1078-20

(Replacement for the discontinued Winchester WAA20 F1 For use in 7/8 to 1-1/4 oz. skeet, sporting clays or hunting loads. Versatile for most hulls depending on powder volume.)

Velocity: 1220 fps = 831 mph

Pressure: 11,700 psi

If you “roll” your own shotgun shells give these a try!

Good Huntin’ an' Fishin’.

The Spinner Fall Is In Full Bloom

2010-09-06T16:13:00.000-06:00

The Spinner Fall Is In Full Bloom and this pattern has worked well for me.

Rusty Spinner V1
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101, TMC 501
Size: 16 ~ 24
Thread: Rusty Brown UTC 70
Tail: Light Pardo Whiting Coq de Leon Fibers
Abdomen: Medium Tawny Tan #942-1056 Sulky® 40 Wt Machine Embroidery Thread
Wing: Tan Float-Vis
Thorax: Rusty Brown Superfine Dubbing
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
1, Start the abdomen thread at the 1/3 hook shank point.
2, Tie in the tail material and overwrap to above the hook barb.
3, Tail length should be slightly longer than the hook shank.
4, Wrap a tapered abdomen to 3 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
5, Whip-finish with 2~3 wraps and cut off.
6, Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/4 hook shank point.
7, Tie in the wing “spinner/spent” style.
8, Dub a thick thorax over the wing tie in point and to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
9, Wrap and whip-finish a small neat head.

Detritus Cased Caddis

2010-08-11T22:05:00.002-06:00

I have fished this pattern for many years with success. I tie and fish it with a dubbed head, a metal black bead head and a glass bead head and they all seem to work equally well.

I only wish I could credit the genius who originated this pattern. BUT I have no clue who the originator is!

The only feature added by me is the Peacock Herl.

Detritus Cased Caddis

Tied By: Larry O Jurgens

Originator: ?????

Hook: TMC 3761

Size: 10 ~ 18

Thread: Black Gordon Griffith 14/0

Detritus Case: Mini Black and Mini Natural Ostrich Herls and Peacock Herls

Body: Insect Green Hareline #13 Dubbing

Legs: Natural Brahma Hen Saddle Barbules

Head: Black Glass or Black Metal Bead

Optional: Water Based Head Cement

Tying Instructions

Step 1: Slide the bead onto the hook shank.

Step 2: Start the thread behind the bead.

Step 3: Tie in 1~3 Black and 2~4 Natural Ostrich herls and 1~4 Peacock herls and overwrap to above the hook barb. The number of herls is tyers choice.

Example: For a size 14 hook, I use 2 black, 3 natural Ostrich herls and 2 Peacock herls for the mud case.

Step 4: Move the thread to 2 bead widths behind the bead.

Step 5: Wrap the mud case materials in this order first, the Peacock herls then the Ostrich herls together to 2 bead widths behind the bead

Step 6: Tie in and cut off excess.

Step 7: Tie in the leg material behind the bead with the tips pointing forward. Leg length equals body length.

Step 8: Dub a body from 2 bead widths behind the bead to the bead.

Step 9: Pull the legs down and to the rear, pointing towards the hook point and tie in with 2~3 thread wraps.

Step 10: Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.

Read the article about Boulder Creek Bugs by Jay Zimmerman at the following URL:

http://coloradoflyfishingreports.blogspot.com/2010/07/boulder-creek-bugs.html

OJ North Park Special V1

2010-08-04T21:29:00.000-06:00

OJ North Park Special V1

Source: Dick Orr & Larry O Jurgens

Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 100
Size: 14 ~ 20
Thread: Dark Brown 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Tail: Brown Hackle Barbules
Abdomen: Brown Turkey Vane (See Notes)
Wing: Tan Float-Vis, Parachute Style
Thorax: Rusty Brown Superfine Dubbing
Hackle: Brown

Note: A biot is the leading edge of a primary flight feather; vane is on the trailing edge or from a secondary flight feather.

Tying Instructions
-- Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/2 hook shank point and return to the 1/3 hook shank point.
-- Tie in the parachute wing at the 1/3 hook shank point.
-- Tie in the tail material behind the wing and overwrap a smooth threadbase to above the hook point.
-- Tail length equals hook shank length.
-- Tie in the abdomen vane, NOT a biot, so there will be a “standing rib” when wrapped. See Notes
-- Return the thread with a smooth threadbase to 2 wraps in front of wing.
-- Wrap the abdomen biot to 2 wraps in front of the wing. Tie in and cut off excess.
-- Start the thorax dubbing and wrap to 1 wrap behind the wing.
-- Tie in the hackle behind the wing, dull side down, leave butt stem long enough to tie down in front of wing. -- Hackle is 1 to 2 times the oversized.
-- Dub a thick thorax from 2 wraps behind the wing and forward to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
-- Wrap the hackle a minimum of 3 times and tie in behind hook eye.
-- Wrap and whip-finish a small neat head.

A Pale Morning Dun Pattern

2010-07-23T21:13:00.000-06:00

Pale Morning Dun Biot Parachute V1

By Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 100

Size: 16 ~ 18

Thread: Gray Brown UTC 70

Tail: Wood Duck Dyed Mallard Flank Barbules

Abdomen: Pale Morning Dun #1 Nature’s Spirit Turkey Biot

Thorax: Pale Morning Dun Super Fine Dubbing

Parachute Wing: White Float-Vis

Hackle: Light Dun

Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
--- Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap a threadbase to the 1/2 hook shank point.
--- Tie in a 2” to 3” piece of parachute wing material at the 1/2 hook shank point. Do not cut off the excess.
--- Tie in the tail material behind the wing. Tail length equals hook shank length.
--- Overwrap the tail material with a smooth threadbase to above the hook point.
--- Cut off excess tail material behind wing.
--- Tie in the abdomen biot by the tip so that there will be a “standing” rib when wrapped.
--- Wrap a smooth thread base to above the hook barb.
--- Return the thread to the back of the wing.
--- Wrap the biot to behind the wing. Tie in and cut off the excess.
--- Tie in the hackle feather, dull side down, in front of the wing.
--- Hackle equals 1-1/2 to 2 times the hook gape.
--- Dub a thorax in front and behind the wing and under the hackle feather.
--- NOTE: I use the “in the thread” dubbing method.
--- Wrap the parachute hackle 4 ~ 6 turns. Tie in and cut off excess.
--- Wrap and whip-finish a small neat head.
--- Cut the parachute wing to length. Length is tyers choice.

Give this pattern a try and let me know about your success!!

An Old Fly Box

2010-07-02T16:10:00.019-06:00

I have this old fly box.

It has no monetary value and isn’t worth anything except to me as it belonged to MY DAD… Orville Albert Burton.

Orville was born August 10, 1918 on his father’s farm; the nearest town was/is Padroni, Colorado which is located north of Sterling, Colorado and not too far from the Nebraska border. MY DAD was inducted into the Army in November 1944 and died October 25, 1945, near Tancarville, France.

I have few memories of MY DAD; one of them is fishing with him and his brother Marvin Burton somewhere around Steamboat Springs, Colorado; where we lived at the time. I can remember them hooking a fish and handing me the fly rod and letting me land it which was a “BIG DEAL” as I was around three years old at the time (Incidentally I was born at the old Routt County Hospital in Steamboat Springs in 1941.)

Back to the fly box; I was helping my mother (Margaret) go through some of her large collection of old stuff and determining what needed to be kept and what needed to be thrown away when we found the “box”. I wondered what it was used for and why she kept it. She said it was MY DAD’s fly box and she was saving it for me but due to the passage of time had forgotten about it. It certainly is not representative of today’s fly boxes.

Needless to say I could not wait to check it out. Upon opening all I found were some rusty hooks, bits and pieces of feathers and some badly deteriorated felt and other stuff. MY DAD apparently stuck his flies in a piece of felt to dry and for storage.

MY DAD’s FLY BOX

Pictures of MY DAD on his last fishing trip in July or August 1944.

I have since cleaned and waxed the box to use myself when I retro-fish using a bamboo or fiberglass rod, antique Pflueger Medalist or South Bend/Shakespeare Automatic Reel while carrying an antique Willow Creel that Richard, a very good friend gave to me. I may even wear a sport coat, fedora (wish I could afford a Panama Straw) and irrigation boots, like MY DAD is wearing in the above pictures. Maybe even a necktie?

This outfit will guarantee me a spot any place on the stream/river as people will be trying to flee from THE GHOST OF FISHING SEASONS PAST!

Thanks DAD for instilling the thrill of fly-fishing in my soul!

By Larry O Jurgens nee Burton

New Link

2010-06-21T20:57:00.001-06:00

Zimmerman is at it again!!!
You have got to check out this added blog link for some humorous, informatative and interesting stuff!
Click on Colorado Fly Fishing Reports on my MY BLOGS OF INTEREST LIST.

Pale Morning Dun Nymph

2010-06-16T20:48:00.004-06:00

Pale Morning Dun QD Nymph

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 3769

Size: 16 ~ 20

Thread: Classic Chestnut Pearsall’s Gossamer Silk

Tail: Amber Dyed Mallard Flank

Abdomen: Tying Thread

Wingcase: Wood Duck Dyed Mallard Flank

Thorax: Copper Quick Descent Dub

Legs: Amber Dyed Mallard Flank

Head: Tying Thread

Optional: UV Knot Sense or Hard as Hull Head Cement
Tying Instructions

1. Start the thread behind the hook eye.

2. Tie in the tail material and overwrap to above the hook barb.

3. Tie in and cut off the excess.

4. Tail length equals hook shank.

5. Wrap a thin abdomen from above the hook barb to the 1/2 hook shank point.

6. Optional: Apply UV Knot Sense or Hard as Hull Head Cement to the abdomen for durability.

7. Tie in the wingcase material, appx 6 to 10 fibers, with the tips pointing to the rear.

8. Dub a thorax that is twice as large as the abdomen diameter.

9. Pull the wingcase material over the thorax.

10. Tie in and DO NOT cut off excess.

12. Divide the wingcase tips evenly for the legs. Fold the legs back and tie in.

13. Whip-finish a medium sized head.

14. Trim the legs at the abdomen mid-point when held tight to the abdomen.

Tan Caddis Rockworm

2010-05-18T20:27:00.001-06:00

Photo Credit: Jason Neuswanger (TROUTNUT.COM)

http://www.troutnut.com/fullsize/picture-im_regspec/907

Tan Flex Caddis Rockworm V1

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 2302 ~ Dai-Riki #280
Shown Dai-Riki #280, Size 18 & 15/0 Bead
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: White UTC 70 or Danville 6/0 (70D) Fly Master
Abdomen: Tan, Flex Floss, Span Flex, Sexy Floss etc.
Thorax: Mahogany Brown Super Fine Dubbing
Head: Matte Chocolate 11/0 (#02050) or 15/0 (#42038) Mill Hill Glass Bead
Optional: Water-based Head Cement
Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the tying thread 1 bead width behind the bead.
Tie in the body material and overwrap to partway down the hook bend.
Wrap a smooth underbody with the tying thread to 1 bead width behind the bead.
Wrap the body material to 1 bead width behind the bead.
(For a slightly tapered abdomen stretch the abdomen material and relax it as you wrap forward.)
Tie in and cut off the body material.
Optional; Use a magic marker to color about 3” of the tying thread eliminating the white thread to show thru the dubbing or the whip-finish.
Dub a thorax slightly larger than the bead from 1 bead width behind the bead to the bead.
Whip-finish with a minimum number of wraps
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.
Use a dubbing brush to make the legs.

General Purpose Attractor

2010-04-24T16:36:00.007-06:00

Black & Brown Dredger

By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 2457, TMC 2487

Size: 6 ~ 20

Thread: Black UTC 70

Tail: Mottled Grey Brahma Hen Saddle Fibers

Abdomen: Black & Brown Copper Ultra Wire

Wingcase: Black Thin Skin

Thorax: Holographic Brown Ice Dub

Legs: Picked Out Thorax Dubbing

Head: Black Bead (Sized to Hook)

Other: Zap-A-Gap CA+ Super Glue, Knot Sense or 5 Minute Epoxy

Tyers Notes:

1. This pattern is a good candidate for step tying.
2. The Black wire tied in on the tyers side and will be the end wrap at the rear of the abdomen. The Brown Copper wire is tied in on the far side.
3. Optional, Apply “HaH” to the abdomen for durability. Set aside until all flies tied for this are session completed through Step 6.
4. Trim the fibers to appx 1/8” before wrapping this eliminates the majority of “finish” trimming.
Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the bead.
Tie in the tail material and overwrap partway down the hook bend. Tail length equals hook gape.
See Tyers Notes 2 & 3;
Move the thread to behind the bead. Tie in the abdomen wires on top of the hook shank and overwrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Coat the thread base with super glue.
See Tyers Note 3;
Wrap the abdomen wires together to partway down the hook bend and break off on the underside of the hook shank.
Tie in 2 ~ 4 pieces of the wingcase material. Overwrap to the hook shank mid-point.
See Tyers Note 4;
Tie in a 2” ~ 3” dubbing loop and apply the dubbing. Twist tight and wrap the thorax to behind the bead. Stroke the dubbing fibers to the rear as you wrap forward. Trim the fibers on the top of the thorax.
Pull the wingcase material forward and tie in behind the bead and cut off excess.
Use a small amount of dubbing and cover the thread wraps.
Whip-finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.
Optional: Apply 5 minute epoxy to the wingcase.

Soft Staz Dad (A Molting Crawdad)

2010-04-06T19:43:00.000-06:00

Soft Staz Dad (A Molting Crawdad)

By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 9395
Size: 4 ~ 10
Thread: Orange Monocord
Antennae: Orange Crystal Flash
Shellback: Heavy Plastic Bag Strip
Rib: Hot Orange, Medium, Ultra Wire
Body: Root Beer Estaz
Claws: Rust Dyed Grizzly Rabbit Strips
Weight: Nickel/Silver Plated Dumbbell Eyes
Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and tie in the dumbbell eyes on the top of the hook shank appx 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
Invert the hook in the vise and wrap a threadbase to opposite the hook barb.
Tie in 4~8 strands of antennae material.
Tie in the rib wire, shellback and body materials in the order listed.
Make 1~2 wraps of body material and tie off.
Do not cut off excess.
Tie in a bunch of claw material on each side of the hook shank.
Bunch size and length is tyers choice.
Move thread to behind the dumbbell eyes.
Wrap the body material to behind the dumbbell eyes.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the shell back material over the body and tie off behind dumbbell eyes.
Do not cut off excess.
Spiral wrap the rib wire to behind the hook eye.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Lift up the shellback material and whip-finish under the shellback.
Cut off shellback material appx 1~2 eye lengths past the hook eye.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Brown & Blue Chironomidge (13 Steps To Success)

2010-03-27T10:17:00.000-06:00

Brown & Blue Chironomidge
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 200
Size: 12 ~ 22
Thread: Dark Brown 6/0 or 8/0 UNI Thread
Breathers: White Dental Super Floss
Body & Head: Tying Thread
Rib: Blue Small/Brassie Size Ultra Wire
Optional: Brush-on Superglue or Hard as Hull Head Cement
Shown TMC 200 Size 16 w/Breathers

Tying Instructions
1) Start the tying thread 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
2) Optional; Wrap a threadbase to above the hook barb and tie in rear breathers with appx ½” extending past the end of the hook bend. Move the thread to behind the hook eye.
3) Tie in the head breathers with appx ½” extending in front of the hook eye.
4) Tie in the rib material.
5) Overwrap the rib material to the rear breather’s tie in point.
6) Wrap a body using the tying thread from the rear breather’s tie in point to behind the hook eye until the desired body thickness is achieved. Thickness is tyers choice.
7) Tie in and cut off excess.
8) Spiral wrap the rib to behind the hook eye making 5 ~ 9 “ribs”.
9) Tie in and cut off excess.
10) Wrap and whip-finish an elongated thick head. Head size is tyers choice.
11) Optional; Apply Super Glue or Hard as Hull to the body and head for durability and “shine”.
12) Stretch and trim the head breathers 1 ~ 2 the hook eye lengths in front of the hook eye.
13) Stretch and trim the optional rear breathers to appx the hook eye length.

A DELANEY BUTTES FAVORITE

2010-03-10T21:17:00.000-07:00

Aquatic Beetle
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #075
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: Black UTC 70
Air Bubble: Clear Glass Bead
Monofilament: 6X ~ 8X
Rib/Underbody Wire: Black Ultra Wire
Body/Legs: Ostrich Herl
Shellback: Black Thin Skin
Optional: Black Magic Marker, Super Glue and
Water-based Head Cement

Notes:
Optional; Color the mono with a black magic marker before sliding on the glass bead to represent legs.
The glass bead represents the air bubble that beetles carry when rising to the surface.
This pattern without the bead in sizes 8 & 10 also works well in lakes that have a large population of snails.

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/4 hook shank point.
Cut a 5” ~ 6” piece of 6X ~ 8X monofilament (mono). See Notes.
Slide the air bubble bead onto the mono.
Tie in a mono loop with the air bubble bead onto the top of the hook shank at the hook shank mid-point.
Do not cut off the excess mono. See Notes.
Adjust the air bubble loop to equal the hook gape.
Overwrap the mono loop ends to 2 eye lengths the behind hook eye.
Wrap a thread base over the mono to above the hook point.
Cut off the excess mono tags.
Optional; Apply Super Glue to the thread wraps covering the mono.
Tie in the shell back material on top of the hook shank.
Tie in with the dull side up.
Tie in 1 ~ 3 black Ostrich herls. The number of herls is tyers choice.
Tie in a 5” underbody/rib wire loop on the bottom of the hook shank.
Wrap a threadbase over the underbody wire to above the hook barb.
Cut the wire loop so that you now have 2 pieces of wire; one for the underbody and one for the rib.
Move the thread to behind the hook eye.
Wrap a wire underbody to 1 eye length behind hook eye.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap the Ostrich herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the shellback over the body.
Tie in 1 eye length behind the hook eye and cut off excess.
Wrap or counter wrap the rib wire, making 5 ~ 9 ribs to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
Optional, apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Ya Gotta Check Out This Blog

2010-02-28T09:19:00.008-07:00

I stumbled upon this blog while researching for "Classic Wet Fly" information.
See My Blogs Of Interest List or go there directly via;
http://http://www.fishingwithflies.com/
The "Flies With a Story" section is very informative, was for me anyway.

An EEZEE Tie Damsel Nymph

2010-02-20T20:34:00.004-07:00

Damsel Nymph
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2312
Size: 8 ~ 16
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Tail: Golden Olive Marabou
Rib: Green UTC Ultra Wire
Body: Golden Olive Marabou
Wing: Golden Olive Marabou
Legs: Olive Round Rubber, Medium for Sizes 8 ~ 12
Small For Sizes for 12 ~ 16
Head: Brown Olive Bead (Bead Size Is Tyers Choice)

Note:
I tie this pattern using black, black nickel, gold, copper or brown olive bead heads.
Round rubber legs, medium for sizes 8 ~ 12 and small for sizes for 12 ~ 16

Tying Instructions
Slide bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the bead and wrap a threadbase to above the hook point.
Tie in the tail marabou tips above the hook point.
Overwrap with thread to above hook barb.
DO NOT cut off the marabou butts.
Tail length equals hook gape.
Double the tail butts back to above the hook barb and tie down.
Tie in the wire rib in front of the double-backed marabou.
Wrap the tail butts forward to the bead and tie off.
DO NOT cut off the marabou butts.
Spiral counter-wrap the rib wire to behind the bead.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Move the thread to 2 eye lengths behind the bead.
Tie in the legs on the sides of the hook shank. Leg length is tyers choice.
Pull the marabou butts to the rear and overwrap with tying thread.
Cut the marabou butts to appx ¼ the body length.
This simulates the emerging wings.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.

The “Mothers Day” Caddis Hatch is just around the corner!

2010-02-04T19:22:00.007-07:00

Olive 30° Caddis V1

30° Caddis TMC 101 Hook Preparation:
Place the hook in your vise at appx 30°.
Place your needle nose pliers behind the hook eye with one side of the jaws at the hook shank mid-point.
Bend the front half of hook shank so that it is parallel to your tying table.This is hook configuration is an adaptation of Jay Zimmerman’s “Original” Boulder Creek Caddis pattern.

Olive 30° Caddis V1
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Olive Dun 8/0 UNI Thread
Abdomen: Olive Wonder Wrap
Wing: Bleached Cow Elk Hair
Thorax: Green Drake Superfine Dubbing
Hackle: Light Grey Dun Herbert Miner Saddle
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Loon Water Based Head Cement

Notes:
Cut a “V” in the bottom of the hackle to float lower on the water’s surface.
Trim the hackle “flat” on the bottom to simulate being “trapped” in the surface film.

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 30° hook shank bend point.
Tie in the abdomen material at the 30° hook shank point.
Wrap a tapered abdomen to opposite the hook barb and back to the 30° hook shank bend point.
Stretch and relax the tension as you wrap to make the taper.
Tie in the wing material at the 30° hook shank bend point and overwrap to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
The wing should be even with the rear of the hook bend.
Tie in the hackle feather at the 30° hook shank bend point.
Optional: For durability apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps before continuing.
Dub a thorax from the wing/hackle tie in point eye to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Thorax thickness is tyers choice.
Wrap the hackle feather 3 ~ 6 wraps to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap and whip-finish a small head.
Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.

2010 Hecoma Game Ranch Fishing Special

2010-01-26T20:28:00.008-07:00

Hecoma Game Ranch “Fishing” Special

Hecoma Game Ranch has put together two special “fishing” packages for 2010. Both of the packages include two days of fishing, example Friday noon to Sunday noon and two overnight stays, Friday and Saturday nights. Other days and overnights are available also.
See notes below.

Package One: We are offering a special two day rate for one to four “rods” at $150 per day plus $25 for the overnight stay. The two day package total is $350 plus “host guide” expenses. See notes below.

Package Two: We also are offering a special two day rate for groups of five “rods” or more. The rod fee is $125 per day plus $25 for the overnight stay. The two day package total is $300 plus “host guide” expenses. See notes below.

The standard daily rod fee is $135 excluding the standard $45 overnight stay plus guide fee. The guide fee is determined by agreement between the client and the guide.

Notes:
1 - The caveat for the overnight stay is that you provide your own sleeping bag and pillow, food, snacks and drinks. If you prefer, meals can be purchased in Cedaredge which has several restaurants. The ranch is less than 30 minutes from town.

2 - The host guide expenses are meals and gas to and from the host guides residence and/or other arrangement between the customer and the host guide.

3 -The ranch is open for fishing from February 26 - July 12 and September 1 to October 4. The ranch open for day fishing only, no overnight stays from October 5 to November 1.

Contact Larry O Jurgens via email for reservations or other information at;

loj.bugstuff@gmail.com

This is your opportunity to possibly catch the largest trout of your life.

Pictures of the "Lodge" and some of the neighbors!

For more Hecoma Game Ranch information about the ranch got to the ranch website at:

http://www.hecomaonline.com/

A Handy Tool For The Foam Fly-Tyer

2010-01-17T13:55:00.003-07:00

Here is the list of the tools that I use to cut foam for my fly tying needs;
Razor Blades, either single edge or double edge which I break in half,
A steel straight edge,
A 5” x 7” picture frame glass (the “cheapest” frame that I can find)
And a template that I made using Power Point either in metric 1mm ~ 10mm or 1/16” ~ 5/8”
These are made on 4 5” x 7” templates;
Template 1 = 1/16” ~ 3/8”
Template 2 = 7/16” ~ 5/8”
Template 3 = 1mm ~ 6mm
Template 3 = 7mm ~ 10mm
I have these templates in a .pdf document.
If you would like a copy of these templates send me an email with “Foam Cutting Template Request” in the subject line. My email address; loj.bugstuff@gmail.com
I will be more than happy to send the file to you.
The first page has “Template Use Instructions”, this is how I put together the Handy Foam Cutting Tool.

Check out my blog at; http://lojsflytyingbugstuff.blogspot.com/
Or click on “LoJ’s Fly Tying & Bug Stuff” in the LINKS OF INTEREST Section.
~ LoJ

An All Seasons Midge/Chironomid Pattern

2010-01-09T20:23:00.004-07:00

Shown TMC 200R Size 16

Wayne’s Widget Midge Pupa V1
By: Larry O Jurgens
Tied and designed especially for Wayne Williams
Relaxed/Rising/Hanging Position
Hook: TMC 2312, TMC 200R, Daiichi 1270
Sizes: 14 ~ 18
Curled Position
Hook: Daiichi 1140 or 1150
Sizes: 10 ~ 20
Materials for Both
Optional Breathers: White Super-Floss/Poly-Pro/Antron Fibers
Head: Golden Olive #02048 11/0 Mill Hill Glass Bead
Tying Thread: Olive Dun 6/0 or 8/0 UNI-Thread
Body: Tying Thread
Rib: Light Copper #145-6011 Sulky Holoshimmer
Optional: Hard as Hull (HaH”) and Super Glue

Notes:
See pictures by Michelle Mahood Red Segmented Curled Midge and Red Segmented Relaxed Midge from the Flyfishing Entomology: Photo Gallery of Macroinvertebrates of Northern California website at; http://www.pbase.com/michellemahood/midges
Also see picture by Brian Chang from website Fly Fishers Republic.com at;
http://www.flyfishersrepublic.com/tactics/fishing/chironomid-tactics/

Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the hook eye.
Tie in the front breather fibers behind the hook eye. Verify that the bead will slide over the breather tie in point. Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Optional; Apply super glue to the whip-finish.
Move the bead to behind the hook eye.
Start the tying thread behind the bead.
Tie in the rib wire and tail breathers. Overwrap to partway down the hook bend.
Using the tying thread wrap a tapered body to behind the bead. Make 1 to 2 wraps under the rib wire before wrapping the body.
Wrap the rib wire forward making 5 ~ 9 “ribs”. Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap a narrow collar behind the bead.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Optional: Apply HaH or super glue to the body and whip-finish for a life-like look.

Black Ice BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly)

2009-12-29T10:56:00.003-07:00

BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly)
Developed by Tim Heng, previous manager of Taylor Creek Fly Shop, the BLM (Beaded Little Mayfly) is one of the most effective little mayfly/midge imitations ever. A thorax style bead with just the right amount of material - deadly.
Great early and late in the season.
The BLM was awarded the fly of the year in 2002 by Flyfisherman Magazine.

Shown TMC 3769 Size 16

Black Ice BLM Nymph
(A Tim Heng BLM Adaptation)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 3769 or TMC 3761
Size: 14 ~ 20
Thread: Black 8/0 UNI-Thread
Tail: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Abdomen: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Rib: Gun Metal Blue X-Small Ultra-Wire
Thorax: Black Bead
Shellback & Legs: Angel Hair, Baitfish Color
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the bead at the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in the rib wire and several full length strands of Angel Hair for the tail and abdomen.
Tie in the Angel Hair with all but the tail extending in front of the hook eye.
Tail length equals hook shank length.
Overwrap The Angel Hair to above the hook barb.
Move the thread to behind the bead.
Slide the bead to behind the hook eye.
Wrap the abdomen and shellback Angel Hair from the 1/3 hook shank point to above the hook barb.
Wrap back to the 1/3 hook shank point and tie in.
DO NOT cut off excess.
Counter wrap the rib wire making 5~7 “ribs” to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in and cut off the excess rib wire.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps and cut off the thread.
Force the bead onto the tie off area.
Start the thread in front of the bead.
Pull the excess abdomen Angel Hair over the bead and tie in behind the hook eye.
Divide the shellback Angel Hair evenly and fold back for the legs.
Wrap a medium sized head and whip-finish.

An Interesting Website

2009-12-11T21:41:00.004-07:00

In my stumbling around the internet I found an interesting website. I have seen a couple of these programs on Public Television and lo and behold there are three seasons worth of fly tying programs to watch.
The "Fly Tying The Anglers Art" programs are presented by Washington State University at the following url: http://kwsu.org/Offers/FlyTying.aspx
I also have the link on my "Blogs of Interest List".

Front Range Anglers Fly Tying Clinic

2009-12-11T16:00:00.006-07:00

This is an invitation to join me December 19, 2009 from 10 am till noon for a fly tying clinic at:
Front Range Anglers
629B South Broadway
Boulder, CO 80305
Phone 303-494-1375
If you are unfamiliar with the Boulder area give Mapquest a try.
Visit the shop website at: http://frontrangeanglers.com/
I will be tying Baetis, Caddis and Chironomid patterns.

LOJ's Red Quill

2009-11-30T20:00:00.004-07:00

This pattern will work for Red Quill and Mahogany hatches.

Red Quill (Mono-Wing)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 102Y
Size: 13 ~ 21
Thread: Orange 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Tail: Light Pardo Coq de Leon Whiting Tailing Fibers
Abdomen: Red Quill Stripped Hackle Quill
Parachute Wing: White Float-Vis
Thorax: Tying Thread
Hackle: Brown Whiting Saddle Hackle
Head: Tying Thread
Other: Water-based Head Cement, Super Glue**

Notes:
Soak the quill in warm water 10 to 30 minutes before using to prevent breakage.
** I use Loon water-based head cement and Loctite brush on super glue.

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the ¼ hook shank point.
Tie in the tail material at the 1/3 hook shank point and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Tail length equals hook shank length.
Return the thread to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in the abdomen quill and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Return the thread wrapping a smooth threadbase to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Apply super glue to the abdomen for durability and “life-like” shine.
Let dry before proceeding.
Tie in a parachute type wing in front of the abdomen quill.
Wing height equals hook shank length.
Tie in the hackle in front of the wing; Wrap the hackle “conventional” style not as a parachute style hackle, make a minimum of 5 wraps with 2 wraps behind the wing.
Tie off the hackle 1 eye length behind the hook eye and cut off excess
Wrap and whip finish a medium sized head.
Apply water-based head cement to the head.

One Of The Best Adult Midge Patterns Around!

2009-11-11T10:22:00.005-07:00

An Oldie but Goody!

Bill's Black Adult Midge V1
Originated By: Bill Fitzsimmons
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101
Size: 18 ~ 24
Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffith
Abdomen: Tying Thread
Wing: Light Dun or White Float-Vis
Thorax: Peacock Herl For Sizes 18 & 20 and
Tying Thread For Sizes 22 & 24
Hackle: Dyed Dark Dun Whiting Saddle Hackle
Oversized by 1 Size e.g. Hook Size 20 = Hackle Size 18
Optional: Loon Water Based Head Cement

Tying Instructions Written By LoJ
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap a slightly tapered abdomen from the hook bend to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in a sparse 1” piece of wing material at the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in the material so that it extends over the hook eye.
Wrap a threadbase to behind the hook eye.
Tie in the peacock herl and the hackle with the tips extending in front of the hook eye.
Move the thread to the hook shank mid-point.
Wrap the peacock herl to the hook shank mid-point.
Tie in with 2 thread wraps and cut off excess.
Wrap the hackle to the hook shank mid-point.
Tie in with 2 thread wraps and cut off excess.
Trim a “V” in the hackle barbules on the top of the hook shank.
Pull the wing material that is extended in front of the hook eye to the rear over the thorax.
Tie in and whip-finish with 4 wraps making the wraps towards the hook eye.
Trim a “V” in the hackle barbules on the bottom of the hook shank.
Trim the wing even with the hook bend.Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.

A Baetis or General Purpose Winter Pattern

2009-11-04T22:06:00.003-07:00

An excellent dredger/attractor pattern.
I fish this pattern all year as the bottom fly on any type of setup.

Olive Dredgemerger
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2457, TMC 2487
Sizes: 12 ~ 22
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Tail: Medium Pardo Coq de Leon Tailing Barbules
Abdomen: Olive, UTC Ultra Wire (Size, Tyers Choice)
Wingcase and Wing Buds: Black Float Vis
Thorax: Brown Olive Superfine Dubbing
Head: Brown Olive Cyclops, or Coffee Montana Fly Co Lucent Tungsten Bead
Other: Super Glue and Hard as Hull “HaH” Head Cement

Notes:
This pattern works well for Baetis/Blue Wing Olives, Caddis and General Purpose when tied in the appropriate sizes.
I tie Caddis and General Purpose patterns in sizes 12~18 and Baetis/Blue Wing Olives in sizes 18~22 with a Coffee or Brown Olive Bead.
This pattern works well for a “searching” pattern when nothing discernible is hatching.

Tying Instructions
Slide bead onto the hook shank to behind the hook eye.
Start the thread behind the bead.
Tie in the tail material and wrap a smooth thread base partway down the hook shank.
Tail length equals the hook gape.
Return the thread to behind the bead wrapping a smooth thread base.
Tie in the abdomen wire behind bead.
Insert the wire end into the bead before tying in.
Overwrap a thread base towards the hook bend equal to the bead width.
Apply a thin coat of super glue to the thread base being careful to not to get glue on the tail fibers.
Wrap the abdomen wire partway down the hook bend covering the thread base.
Break the wire on the underneath side of the hook shank.
Optional: Coat the abdomen with HaH or Super Glue for durability.
Select a #2 pencil lead sized bunch of the wingcase/wing buds material.
Tie in behind the bead and overwrap to the end of the thorax area.
Dub the thorax to behind the bead.
Note: The thorax should be the same width and thickness as the bead.
Pull the wingcase over the thorax are and tie in with 2~3 wraps.
Divide the fibers in front of the hook eye and fold back for the wing buds.
Note: The wing buds should be on the sides of the wingcase, not on the hook shank sides like legs.
Trim the wing buds shorter than the abdomen (length is tyers choice).
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.Optional: Apply 2 coats of HaH to the wingcase and/or to the abdomen for durability.

Give It A Try!!

A Midge/Chironomid Pattern

2009-10-22T20:59:00.005-06:00

In the summer I fish this pattern in lakes using sizes 12 ~ 16 using the “Antero Method” e.g. under a either a larger dry indicator or a THINGAMABOBBER. I use sizes 16 ~ 20 when fishing in rivers and streams

Click on the picture for an enlarged view.

Black Rainbow Chironomidge
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 200
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: Iron Gray 8/0 UNI Thread
Body: Black Rainbow #8089 Gϋtermann 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread
Head: Jet Black 11/0, #00081 or Black 11/0, #02014 or Black 15/0 #42014 Mill Hill Glass Bead
Head Cement: Brush on Super Glue and/or Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Notes:
I purchase the Mill Hill Glass Beads at either a Fabric or a Hobby Store.
I purchase the Black Rainbow #8089 Gϋtermann 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread at Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Store.

Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the tying thread behind the bead.
Tie in the body material behind the bead.
Apply a coat of Super Glue to the hook shank for durability.
Wrap a body from above the hook barb to behind the bead.
Body thickness is tyers choice.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap and whip-finish a tapered collar behind the bead.
Apply Super Glue or HaH to the body and bead for durability.

Jay Zimmerman's Backstabber Carp Fly

2009-10-17T10:15:00.006-06:00

I have posted Jay's Backstabber Carp Fly, tying video.
To view the video go to Jay Ziimerman's Backstabber Leech #6 Dated 6/30/09 at the following; http://lojsflytyingbugstuff.blogspot.com/2009/06/jay-ziimermans-backstabber-leech-6.html

Baetis Time Again!

2009-10-01T10:54:00.008-06:00

Baetis time is here again!
When fishing, I fish this fly as a dropper or the bottom fly in a two fly set-up. I have much better luck when using 6X or 7X tippet. Be prepared to lose some flies as the fish critters take this fly with gusto! Good Luck!!!

Pheasant Tail Baetis
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #075
Size: 18 ~ 20
Thread: Brown 14/0 Gordon Griffith
Tail: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Rib: Gun Metal Blue X-Small Ultra Wire
Wingcase: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Thorax: Olive Brown Hare-Tron Dubbing
Legs: Pheasant Tail Feather Barbules See Notes
Head: Tying ThreadOptional: Loon Water Based Head Cement

Notes:
Use a Ringneck Pheasant secondary tail feather.
Pheasant tail feather barbules used on this pattern have no brown on the barbules.
The barbules are a "Natural Olive and Black Speckled. "

Tying Instructions
Start the thread at the hook shank mid-point and wrap to above the hook barb.
Strip 6 ~ 8 pheasant tail barbules from a secondary tail feather.
Tie in the pheasant tail, barbule tail with two thread wraps.
Tail length equals hook shank length.
Do not cut off excess.
Fold the excess pheasant tail back over the hook bend.
Tie in with two thread wraps.
Do not cut off excess.
Tie in the rib wire and overwrap to two eye lengths behind the hook eye.
Cut off the excess.
Wrap the pheasant tail barbules forward to two eye lengths behind the hook eye.
Do not cut off excess.
Counter-wrap the rib wire to two eye lengths behind the hook eye, making 5 ~ 7 “ribs”.
Cut off the excess.
Fold the excess pheasant tail back towards the hook bend. Tie in at the hook shank mid-point.
Do not cut off excess.
Dub a thick thorax to one eye length behind the hook eye.
Pull the pheasant tail barbules over the thorax and tie in behind the hook eye.
Divide the pheasant tail barbules in half. Tie in on the sides of the hook shank and overwrap to the front of the thorax for the legs.
Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
Trim the legs even with the back of the thorax.
Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.

A Great Fall Pattern Courtesy Of Jay Zimmerman

2009-09-14T09:38:00.004-06:00

Here is another proven pattern from the vise of Jay Zimmerman.
This is a very effective pattern in the fall especially when fishing pocket water.
This is an attractor pattern and doesn’t necessarily represent any natural insect.
Be that as it may, the fish seem to like it just fine.
Note: If it is from the fertile mind and nimble fingers of JZ it’s gotta be good!

Click on the picture to see an enlarged view.

Redneck Peacock Nymph
(A Fall Attractor)
By: Jay Zimmerman
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2487/TMC 2457/Dai-Riki 135
Sizes: 16 & 18
Thread: FL Fire Orange UTC 70
Body: Peacock Herl
Rib: Silver, Small Ultra Wire
Flashback: Opal Mirage or Pearl, Medium UTC Tinsel
Neck: FL Fire Orange UTC 70 Band
Head: 3/32 or 7/64 Copper Tungsten Bead

Tying Instructions
Place the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the bead and wrap a thread base half the bead width.
Tie in the rib wire, flashback material and 3~4 strands of peacock herl on the top of the hook shank.
Wrap a smooth thread base over the materials to appx half-way down the hook bend.
Return the thread to half the bead width behind the bead.
Wrap the peacock herl forward to half the bead width behind the bead.
Tie in on the bottom of the hook shank and cut off excess.
Pull the flashback material forward to half the bead width behind the bead.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Counter wrap the rib material in making 4~5 segments to half the bead width behind the bead.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap a wide thread band behind the bead and whip-finish.
Apply HaH head cement to the whip-finish.

A New "Twist" On An Oldie But Goodie!!!

2009-09-01T16:21:00.003-06:00

Here is a different “twist” on the oldie but goodie Red Fox Squirrel Hair Nymph (RFSHN) from the fertile mind and nimble fingers of Dave Whitlock.

A number of years ago I dropped a fly box in the “crick” and thoroughly soaked the flies. When I got home I put the flies away to dry and promptly forgot about them. I re-discovered them when re-arranging my fishing and fly tying stuff. The hooks were good (read not rusted) but the beads and wire had tarnished. I kind of liked the muted color combination.

This past spring I proceeded to see if they would still work. I fish them solo and in tandem with a newly tied pattern with shiny Gold Bead and Wire. In fishing of this tarnished/dull pattern compared to a shiny pattern, the tarnished/dull has out fished the shiny by a margin of appx 4 to 1. It didn’t seem to matter whether it was the lead or anchor fly in a two nymph rig. This is probably due to the fact that the fish have seen a lot of shiny beads and ribs. This is just my opinion but it makes sense to me!

I found some old beads and wire that I have had 20+ years in my fly tying stuff that were dull and proceeded to use them. The wire spools are wooden and old beads may have been brass as opposed to being gold plated. I have also have dulled the shine on Gold Plated Cyclops beads by soaking them in red wine vinegar. The longer I soaked them the duller they became until they reached the point as shown in the fly picture. Click on the picture for an enlarged view.

I have also tied this pattern using the combination of a Brown Olive Cyclops Bead with Brown Ultra Wire. The results of which have been exceptionally good.
Give this “twist” a try and see if works for you and let me know your results.

Shown TMC 3769 Size 16
Tarnished/Dull Gold Bead,
Tarnished/Dull Gold Wire Rib
And Optional Legs

BH Fox Squirrel Nymph V1
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 3769, TMC 3761, Dai-Riki #075
Size: 16 ~ 22
Thread: Brown 8/0 UNI Thread
Tail: Fox Squirrel Back Guard Hairs
Optional Underbody: Lead Wire
Abdomen: Fox Squirrel Belly Dubbing
Rib: Tarnished/Dull Gold Wire (If Available) or Brown Ultra Wire
Thorax: Fox Squirrel Back
Optional Legs: Natural Dark Brown Speckled Hen Back
Head: Tarnished/Dull Gold Bead (If Available) or Brown Olive Cyclops Bead
Optional: Water-based Head Cement and Super Glue

Tying Instructions
Slide the bead onto the hook shank, bead size is tyers choice.
Wrap a narrow threadbase behind the hook eye that is tight to the bead.
Optional; Apply Super Glue to the threadbase.
Slide the bead onto the threadbase to behind the hook eye.
Start the thread behind the bead.
Tie in the rib wire and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Optional; Wrap lead wire from the hook shank mid-point to the bead and apply Super Glue to the lead wire wraps.
Tie in the tail material in above the hook barb and overwrap forward to above the hook point.
Tail length equals hook gape. Cut off excess with a taper cut.
Move the thread to above the hook barb.
Dub an abdomen to the hook shank mid-point.
Wrap or counter wrap the wire rib to behind the bead making 4 ~ 9 “ribs”.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Using a dubbing loop dub a thorax to behind the bead
Optional; Tie in the leg material “beard style”.
Legs should not extend beyond the hook point.
Whip-finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Antero Special V1 (Crippled Callibaetis Emerger)

2009-08-24T19:21:00.004-06:00

Antero Special V1
(Crippled Callibaetis Emerger)
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 101
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Dun Gordon Griffiths 14/0
Tail: Tan Ostrich Herl Tips
Rib: Black Small Ultra Wire
Abdomen Shellback: Natural Mottled Bustard Thin Skin
Abdomen: Brown Mini Ostrich Herls
Thorax: Gray 2mm Foam
Wing & Shellback: Gray 2mm Foam
Hackle: Grizzly Hackle
Optional: Water-based Head Cement

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye.
Tie in the tail material and rib wire and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Shuck length equals hook shank length.
Tie in a strip of Thin Skin with the shiny side up and the abdomen material on top of the hook shank.
Move the thread to the ½ hook shank point.
Wrap the abdomen material to the ½ hook shank point.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the Thin Skin on top of the hook shank and tie in at the 1/2 hook shank point.
Cut off excess.
Spiral wrap the rib wire to the ½ hook shank point making 5 ~ 9 “ribs”.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the thorax material on the bottom of the hook shank and overwrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
Move the thread to the ½ hook shank point.
The thorax material should be pointing towards the hook point.
Tie in the wing material on the top of the hook shank and overwrap to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Tying Note: The wing material should be pointing towards the hook point.
Pull the thorax foam forward over the thorax and tie off 1 eye length behind the hook eye with 3 tight wraps.
Cut off excess.
Pull the wing and shell back material forward over the thorax and tie off 1 eye length behind the hook eye with 3 tight wraps.
DO NOT cut off excess.
Tie in the hackle and wrap a minimum of 3 turns.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Move the thread to under the wing material behind the hook eye.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Trim the wing to length and cut off the corners. Wing length equals the abdomen length.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Cross Eye Trigger Minnow

2009-08-18T21:25:00.003-06:00

This pattern has proven highly successful for me in the fall.

Cross Eye Trigger Minnow
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 9395
Size: 2 ~ 6
Thread: Olive Danville Flat Waxed Nylon
Body: Shimmer Gold Estaz
Wing: Grizzly Olive Variant Rabbit Zonker Strip
Collar: Olive Variant Cross-Cut Rabbit Zonker Strip
Trigger: Red 1/64 Holographic Mylar Motion
Head: Sprit River Cross Eye Cone e/w Red Eyes
Optional: Zap-A-Gap Super Glue and Water-Based Head Cement

Tying Instructions
Slide the cross-eye cone on to the hook shank.
Wrap a threadbase behind the hook eye so that the cone head is tight on the hook shank.
Cut off the thread.
Optional: Apply Zap-A-Gap the threadbase.
Move the cone to behind the hook eye over the threadbase.
Restart the thread behind the cone and wrap a threadbase to above the hook barb.
Tie in the zonker strip above the hook barb.
Tie in the body material in front of the zonker strip.
Wrap a threadbase to behind the cone.
Wrap the body material to 1 cone length behind the cone head.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the zonker strip over the body material to 1 cone length behind the cone.
Cut the hair off of the zonker strip at the tie in point.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the trigger Mylar (1 ~ 3 strands) on each side of the hook shank.
Tie in the collar material and make 2 wraps behind the cone and force the last collar wrap into the cone.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Trim the hair on the bottom the hook shank so the body shows.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of thread wraps.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.
Cut the zonker tail to 1½ times the hook shank length.
Cut the trigger Mylar to length of your choice.
Apply red pupils to the cross-eye cone indentations.
Option 1; Apply Zap-A-Gap Super Glue to attach the pupils.
Option 2; Apply Epoxy or Hard as Hull over the pupils.

Hecoma Ranch Fishing 08/01/09

2009-08-13T20:09:00.017-06:00

Hecoma Ranch Aug 01 2009
Bob Janiga, Randy Kulig, Kurt Rhymestine, Cliff and CJ Jurgens, Fred Ferganchik and I spent a great day of fishing at Hecoma Game Ranch. We all met for breakfast in Cedaredge before we got down to the business of fishing. By the time we started fishing the temperature was hot but the fishing wasn’t on fire. At lunchtime we took a break and Fred entertained us with a sightseeing and historical tour of both the Hecoma Game Ranch and Coury Ranch which was very informative and the sights were spectacular.
Bob Janiga (Rome, New York), Randy Kulig (Ohio, New York), Kurt Rhymestine, (Herkimer, New York) are from central New York and are excellent fisherman. This type of lake/pond fishing was new to them but they caught on fast.
Note: click on the images for the full size picture.
The “gang” from New York and LOJ
(left to right) Kurt, Bob, Randy and me.

Cliff Jurgens
CJ’s First
My son Cliff and Fred are at the novice level. My grandson CJ is a beginner and experienced his first successful fly fishing trip. Kurt especially wanted to catch a large cutthroat which he accomplished late Saturday afternoon.

This Snake River Cutthroat was the largest fish caught on Aug 1.

Kurt & Fred with Kurt’s Big ’un
Kurt’s Big ‘un

The bull elk below are the three bulls that watched us fish in the video that Jay Zimmerman shot in May.

They have really grown, eh?

Two Big Boys
The "REALLY BIG BOY!!"

If you want more information or schedule a fishing eperience at Hecoma Game Ranch contact me vie email at; lojbugstuff@gmail.com or click on the contact me gadget.

Larry O Jurgens

General Purpose Hi-Vis Mayfly Emerger

2009-07-28T19:48:00.003-06:00

This general purpose emerger pattern has worked for me when there is no discernible hatch taking place.
When fishing this pattern apply fly floatant to the wing only. Use powder to dry the abdomen and thorax.

Hi-Vis Mayfly Emerger
By Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2487
Size: 12 ~ 24
Thread: Dark Brown Gordon Griffith 14/0
Shuck: Copper Brown Antron
Rib: Fine Lagartun Copper Wire
Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Parachute Wing: White Float-Vis
Hackle: Grizzly

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye.
Tie in a parachute wing appx 1” to 2” in length at the 1/3 hook shank point.
Do not cut off excess.
Tie in the rib and shuck material behind the wing.
Shuck length equals hook shank length.
Wrap a threadbase over rib and shuck material to just past the hook barb.
Tie in 3 ~ 6 abdomen barbules by the tips.
Move the thread to the back of the parachute wing.
Wrap abdomen barbules to the back of the parachute wing.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap or counter wrap the rib wire to behind the wing making 5 ~ 7 “ribs”.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in 2 ~ 4 thorax herls behind the wing and overwrap to the hook shank mid-point.
Move thread to the front of the wing.
Tie in the hackle feather, shiny side up, in front of the wing.
Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Wrap the thorax herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap the hackle around the parachute wing 4 ~ 6 turns.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap and whip-finish a small head.
Cut the parachute wing to length. Length is tyers choice.

Polly Rosborough Black Drake Swimmer Nymph

2009-07-15T14:58:00.006-06:00

This is an adaptation of the late Ernest Herbert “Polly ”Rosborough's Black Drake Swimmer Nymph/Emerger pattern. I tie this pattern in the following colors, black (as shown), olive and dark brown.
The black pattern in sizes 14 & 16 has been the most successful pattern for me.
Swimmer nymphs are best suited for ponds, lakes, and to the slower flows of spring creeks and tailwaters.

Black Drake Swimmer Nymph
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 2312
Size: 12 ~ 16
Thread: Black 8/0 UNI-Thread or UTC 70
Optional Underbody: .010” or .015” Lead or Non-Lead Wire
Tail: Natural Mallard Flank Fibers
Abdomen & Thorax: Dark Gray Dubbing or Wool Yarn
Wing: Black Marabou Fibers or Ostrich Herl
Optional Legs: Natural Mallard Flank Fibers
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Black Hard Head Cement and Super Glue

Tying Instructions
~ Split a single strand of yarn into a strand that is slightly larger than the hook shank diameter.
~ Start the thread behind the hook eye.
~ Tie in the tail fibers and yarn and overwrap to above the hook barb.
~ Tail length equals hook shank length.
~ Optional: Wrap a lead or non-lead wire underbody from 1 eye length behind the hook eye to the hook shank
~ mid-point. The wire size is tyers choice.
~ Optional: Cover the underbody wire with the tying thread and/or apply Super Glue for durability.
~ Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~ Wrap the wool yarn to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~ Be sure to twist the yarn as you wrap forward this keeps the yarn from coming apart and creates segmentation.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Optional: Tie in the leg material on the sides of the hook shank. Legs should not extend beyond the hook point.
~ The fish don’t seem to care whether the fly has legs or not!
~ Tie in the wing fibers and “pinch off” the fiber tips even with the hook point.
~ Wrap and whip-finish medium sized head.
~ Optional: Apply Black Hard Head to the head for the “classic” look.

A Great "Spider" Pattern From Steve Johnson

2009-07-07T21:34:00.008-06:00

This is a very productive spider pattern from Steve Johnson aka "Mr. Wet Fly."
The beauty of this fly is it is a generic fly pattern and an easy tie plus it catches fish.
Give it a try!
This is an old English Pattern, per Steve Johnson

Peacock Spider
By: Steve Johnson
Source: Front Range Anglers Clinic
Hook: TMC 100
Size: 14
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Fly Master
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Medium Dun Hen
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
1 ~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the mid-point of the hook shank.
2 ~ Tie in the peacock herls (1 ~ 3 herls) and the hackle by the tips.
3 ~ Make 1 wrap of the peacock herls behind the hackle and wrap to 1 eye length behind the
~~ hook eye.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.

Jay Ziimerman's Backstabber Leech #6

2009-06-30T15:30:00.006-06:00

This pattern of Jay Zimmerman's was originally designed and tied as a "Carp" fly, but has proven to be an excellent Bass fly also.
Due to my sacrilege it has also proven an excellent pattern for "Trout" in both stillwater and moving water environments.
~ LO Jurgens

Back Stabber #6 Leech (A Carp Fly)
Hook: Dai-Riki 810 Sizes 6~4 or TMC 8089 Size 12
or Gamakatsu SL45 Size 4~10
Thread: Black 6/0
Dumbbell Eyes: Silver 1/8” Spirit River Dazl-Eyes
Tail: Black Marabou
Body: Dark Stone Whitlock SLF Dubbing
Hackle: Dark Brown Whiting Utility Saddle Hackle
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
1 ~ Tie in the dumbbell eyes on the top of the hook shank and 1 hook eye length in front of the hook point.
~~ Use “X” wraps and coat with Hard-as-Hull and let dry.
2 ~ The hook is then inverted in the vise for tying the rest of the fly.
3 ~ Wrap a thread base to opposite the hook barb.
4 ~ Dub an oval body to 3 hook eye lengths behind the hook eye.
~~ Be sure to figure “8” around the dumbbell eyes.
5 ~ Tie in the tail material and cut off the marabou butts.
6 ~ Tie in the hackle and wrap to the hook eye.
~~ Be sure to use some of the soft web fibers behind the hook eye.
~~ Tie in and cut off excess.
7 ~ Wrap a medium sized head forcing the hackle rearward and whip-finish.
8 ~ Optional; Apply head cement to the whip-finish.

The Colorado Caddis An Oldie & Goodie!

2009-06-24T14:39:00.007-06:00

This Caddis pattern is an oldie but a goodie that was originally tied by Bob Good of Denver Colorado, per Terry Hellekson’s book Popular Fly Patterns, Published 1977. I have been fishing caddis patterns for the past two days and the "Colorado Caddis" was the top producer as the “dropper” fly using a dry and dropper setup.

Colorado Caddis
Originator: Bob Good, Denver, Colorado
Source: Terry Hellekson, Popular Fly Patterns, Published 1977
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Mustad 3906/3906B
Size: 8 ~ 16
Thread: Black 6/0
Thread Substitute: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Shellback: Natural Gray Goose Quill Slip
Body: Pale Yellow Dubbing or Wool Yarn
Body Substitutes: Light Cahill Superfine Dubbing or Buttercup #540 Aunt Lydia’s Rug Yarn
Legs: Black Hen Hackle (1½ ~ 2½ Sizes Oversized)
Head: Thread
Head Cement: Lacquer (Original)
Head Cement Substitute: Black Hard Head & Vinyl or Flex Cement
Tying Instructions
~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
~ Tie in the shellback material by the “narrow” end.
~ Tie in the yarn if using yarn for the body and overwrap to above the hook barb.
Note ~ Pre-treat the quill section with vinyl or flex cement for durability.
~ Return the thread to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
~ Dub or wrap the body material yarn to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
~ If using yarn tie in and cut off the excess.
~ Tie in and wrap the hackle 2~4 turns. Number of wraps is tyers choice.
~ Tie in and cut off excess.
~ Cut a “V” in the hackle fibers on top of the hook shank.
~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off the excess.
Note: “Stroke” the hackle fibers down for a more realistic looking legs.
~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
~ Optional: Apply Black Hard Head to the whip-finish to provide the “classic” look.

Micro Caddis

2009-06-15T22:02:00.002-06:00

This caddis pattern is an effective pattern on small freestone creeks and in the evening when the "Evening Caddis Hatch" is going full blast. At last light and later it will be a good idea to tightly hang on to your rod as trout will sometimes violently attack this fly!

Micro Caddis V1265
By: Larry Jurgens
Hook: TMC 102Y
Size: 17 ~ 21
Tying Thread: Olive Dun, UNI-Thread 8/0
Abdomen: Burnt Toast, #942-1265 Sulky® 40wt Machine Embroidery Thread
Wing: Tan Float-Vis
Hackle: Dun Grizzly Whiting Saddle 1 Size Smaller (e.g. Hook Size #19 = Hackle Size #22)
Head: Tying Thread

Tying Instructions
1 ~ Start the abdomen thread at the 1/3 hook shank point.
2 ~ Wrap an even thread base to the hook bend and return to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tying Note: Keep the thread twisted tight on the return for segmentation.
3 ~ Whip-finish with 2 ~ 3 wraps and cut off the abdomen thread.
4 ~ Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
~~ Tying Note: Be sure to overwrap the abdomen whip-finish.
5 ~ Optional; Apply Hard As Hull head cement to the abdomen for sheen and durability.
6 ~ Tie in the wing material. Trim the wing even with the hook bend.
7 ~ Tie in the hackle and wrap to 1 hook eye length behind the hook eye.
8 ~ Whip-finish with a minimum number of wraps.
9 ~ Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Red Butt Flash Buzzer

2009-06-11T19:56:00.007-06:00

Give this pattern a try while the "Chironomids" are doing their thing!

Go to "Front Range Anglers Fishing Report" in the Links Of Interest for an excellent article about stillwater fishing with chironomids by Rob Kolanda!!!!

Red Butt Flash Buzzer
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 100
Size: 16~22
Thread: White UTC 70 & Black 8/0 UNI-Thread
Abdomen: 1/4 Red & 3/4 Black Flashabou
Wingcase: Pheasant Tail
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Gills: White Poly Yarn or Super Floss
Optional: Super Glue or Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement and Water-based Head Cement

Tying Instructions
1~~ Start the white thread behind hook eye and wrap the hook shank to above the hook barb and back with a smooth threadbase.
2 ~~ Tie in 1 strand of Red Flashabou and wrap to 1 or 2 turns past the end of the thread base and back to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
3 ~~ Tie in 1 strand of Black Flashabou and wrap a tapered abdomen to above the hook point and to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
4 ~~ Whip-finish the white thread with 3~4 wraps and cut off the white thread.
~~~ Optional: Apply Super Glue or HaH to the abdomen and let dry before continuing.
5 ~~ Start the black thread wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
6 ~~ Tie in a 4 ~ 8 Pheasant tail barbules for the wing case.
7 ~~ Tie in 1 or 2 Peacock herls by the tip ends for the thorax.
8 ~~ Tie in a strand gill material at the 1/4 hook shank point and use figure 8 wraps making a spinner type wing.
9 ~~ Wrap the Peacock herl thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
~~~ Be sure to wrap over and under wing tie in point.
10 ~~ Pull the wing case over the thorax. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 ~~ Wrap and whip-finish a small head.
12 ~~ Optional: Apply water to the whip-finish.
13 ~~ Cut the gill material to form short gills. The gill should extend 1 ~ 2 hook eye lengths beyond the thorax.

Go to "Front Range Anglers Fishing Report" in the "Links Of Interest" for an intersting article about stillwater fishing and chironomids.

The Halfback by Nathan Streeter

2009-06-07T10:50:00.006-06:00

The Halfback and The Fullback
by Nathan Winter Streeter
Excerpted from Fly Tyer Magazine, August, 1981
This pair of flies is quite popular in the Rocky Mountain area and especially on the North Platte River. The flies were developed by the owner of the Black Hills Fly Company Route 4, Box 640, Gillette, WY 82720 by Nathan Streeter.

QUOTE
“I have experimented with my own personal variations of the Halfback and have discovered five important characteristics that contribute to the fly's attractiveness to the large trout in the Platte.
1) The Halfback is normally tied on one of the two Mustad streamer hooks…79580, and 9672. The 79580 is a longer (4X Long) hook than the 9672 (3X Long) hook. The latter should be used for maximum effectiveness.
2) The head should never be tied too long.
3) The tail should never be tied longer than half the length of the hook shank.
4) The hackle should never be much longer than the distance from the hook shank to the point. If it looks too long, it can be cut off evenly to the right length and it won't harm the fly's effectiveness. As a matter of fact, some Platte River fishermen prefer clipped hackle on their Halfbacks and Fullbacks. Personally I don't believe it makes a difference.
5) Most important of all, the body should never be too thin. The body should have ''body". It should be thick and full. Without this characteristic, you might as well be fishing with a bare hook. The chances are, you probably won't catch anything.
In short, the fly should look like the thickest, biggest, fattest, juiciest morsel of a nymph a trout ever clamped its jaws on.” ~ Nathan Streeter
UNQUOTE

Nathan Streeter’s Halfback
“The Original Halfback”
By: Nathan Streeter
Source: Fly Tyer Magazine (August 1981)
Hook: TMC 5263 (Original was tied on Mustad 9672 hooks)
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Size: 4 ~ 12
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Flymaster
Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Optional Underbody: Black Yarn and/or Lead Wire
Rear and Front Body: Peacock Herl
Rear and Front Hackle: Brown Saddle
Rear Half Shell Back: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Head: Tying Thread

Note: This fly should be tied thick and fat, e.g., a juicy morsel. This fly probably best represents a Dobsonfly Larva aka Hellgrammite, or a Dragonfly Nymph. It doesn’t seem to matter to the fish what is “supposed” to mimic but they have liked it for over 30 years that I have been tying and using it.

Step ~ Tying Instruction
1 ~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
2 ~ Optional: Wrap a lead wire underbody and cover with thread and cement the wraps.
3 ~ Tie in a fairly large bunch of Pheasant tail barbules above the hook point for the tail and the shellback.
~~ Tail length equals the hook gape.
4 ~ Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
5 ~ Return the thread to in front of the folded barbules.
6 ~ Optional; Tie in the underbody yarn material.
7 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~ Note: The hackle barbules should be slightly longer than the hook gape.
8 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
9 ~ Move the thread to the middle of the hook shank.
10 ~ Optional; Wrap the yarn underbody material from step 6 to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye.
~~~ Tie in and cut off excess and return the thread to the hook shank mid-point.
11 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to the middle of the hook shank. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to the middle of the hook shank and tie in and cut off excess.
13 ~ Cut off the hackle fibers on the top of the body or divide and force the hackle fibers down evenly on both sides of the body. Trim the hackle barbules even with the hook point if required.
14 ~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off excess
15 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~~ Note: The hackle barbules should be 1½ times the hook gape, e.g., dry fly style.
16 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
17 ~ Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
18 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
19 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye and tie in and cut off excess.
20 ~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
21 ~ Optional; Apply water based head cement to the head/whip-finish.
22 ~ Trim all the hackle on the bottom of the fly even with the hook point.

For a step by step tutorial go to Charlies Flybox@; http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/detail.cfm
Or
Alaska Flyfishers@; http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=2767937892661308465#_top

The "Original" Nathan Streeter Fullback

2009-05-29T20:20:00.004-06:00

Nathan Streeter's Fullback “The Original”
By Nathan Streeter
Source: Fly Tyer Magazine (August 1981)
Tied By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #075 (Original was tied on Mustad 7948A Hooks)
Size: 8 ~ 20
Thread: Black 6/0 Danville Flymaster
Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Optional Underbody: Black Yarn and/or Lead Wire
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Brown
Shell: Pheasant Tail Barbules
Head: Tying Thread

Note: This fly should be tied thick and fat, e.g., a juicy morsel. This fly probably best represents a Dobsonfly Larva aka Hellgrammite, or a Dragonfly Nymph. It doesn’t seem to matter to the fish what is “supposed” to mimic but they have liked it for over 30 years that I have been tying and using it.

Step ~ Tying Instruction
1 ~ Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to above the hook point.
2 ~ Optional: Wrap a lead wire underbody and cover with thread and cement the wraps.
3 ~ Tie in a fairly large bunch of Pheasant tail barbules above the hook point for the tail and the shellback.
~~ Tail length equals the hook gape.
4 ~ Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
5 ~ Return the thread to in front of the folded barbules.
6 ~ Optional; Tie in the underbody yarn material.
7 ~ Tie in one saddle hackle feather by the by the butt with the fibers curved forward.
~~ The hackle barbules should be slightly longer than the hook gape.
8 ~ Tie in a large bunch of Peacock herls.
9 ~ Move the thread to behind the hook eye.
10 ~ Optional; Wrap underbody wool to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 ~ Wrap the Peacock herls to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 ~ Palmer-wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
13 ~ Cut off the hackle fibers on the top of the body or divide and force the hackle fibers down evenly on both sides of the body. Trim the hackle barbules even with the hook point if required.
14 ~ Pull the shellback over the body. Tie in and cut off excess
15 ~ Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
16 ~ Optional; Apply water based head cement to the head/whip-finish.

Bead Head Fullback

2009-05-27T19:04:00.006-06:00

The Halfback and Fullback Flies
My first encounter with these two flies was in the late 1970s when I was working in Casper, Wyoming. While working there I fished the Trappers Route Section of the North Platte River a minimum of 2 to 3 times a week. These two patterns along with my Trappers Route Special (an adaptation of a Platte River Special) and my Trappers Route Muddler accounted for approximately 90% of the fish caught.
The following is excerpted from the article; The Halfback and The Fullback by Nathan Winter Streeter in Fly Tyer Magazine, Volume Four Issue Two, August 1981.
The Halfback and Fullback are two of the best trout flies for fishing in the Rocky Mountain Region od the United States. They have proven effective in all types of fishing situations from catching creek chubs in warm, still creeks to landing ten pound browns in cool rushing rivers. They have been trolled in lakes and fished through ice, but the running trout streams are their homes. They should be a part of every trout fisherman's fly box. ~ Nathan Streeter

I added the bead a few years back and it didn't effect the pattern negatively. Not sure if it is a "real" improvement or not but it works good for me. ~LoJ

Bead Head Fullback
By Larry O Jurgens
Source: A Nathan Streeter Fullback Adaptation
Hook: TMC 3769
Size: 6 ~ 18
Thread: Dark Brown 6/0 UNI Thread Tail: Pheasant Tail Barbs
Rib: Green Ultra Wire
Body Peacock Herl
Hackle: Brown Whiting Saddle
Shell Back: Pheasant Tail Barbs
Head: Black Tungsten or Metal Bead
Tying Instructions
1 -- Slide the bead onto the hook shank. Bead size is tyers choice.
2 -- Wrap a thread base behind the hook eye that is tight to the bead. Whip finish and cut off.
---- Optional; Coat these thread wraps with Super Glue or Head Cement
3 -- Slide the bead onto the “bead” threadbase.
4 -- Start the thread behind the bead and wrap a thread base to above the hook point.
5 -- Tie in the tail and shellback material. The tail should equal the body length.
6 -- Fold the barbules back and overwrap with thread to above the hook barb.
7 -- Tie in the hackle feather, rib wire and 4 ~ 10 Peacock herls.
---- Tyers Note: The body on this pattern should be thick and short.
8 -- Return the thread to behind the bead.
9 -- Wrap the Peacock herls with the rib wire creating a Peacock herl rope.
10 -- Wrap the Peacock herl rope to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 -- Palmer wrap the hackle to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
12 -- Cut the hackle fibers even with the peacock herl body on the top of the hook shank.
13 -- Pull the shellback material over the body. Tie in and cut off excess.
14 -- Whip finish behind the bead with a minimum number of wraps.

A Handy Bead Sizing Chart

2009-05-21T21:18:00.005-06:00

This chart is a "generalization" bead sizing chart.
You as a fly-tyer select the bead size that the finished fly has the appearance that best appeals to you.

LET YOUR IMAGINATION BE YOUR GUIDE!

An eeZee Caddis Pattern

2009-05-15T20:58:00.003-06:00

Olive eeZee Caddis
By: Larry O Jurgens
Source: An adaptation of Tim Fox’s Poopah
Hook: TMC 2488
Size: 12 ~ 20
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Abdomen: Dark Olive Micro Ultra Chenille
Note: I Also Tie This Pattern In Black, Tan, And Chartreuse
Optional Rib: Gold UTC Ultra Wire
Wing: Tan Float-Vis
Thorax: Olive Brown Superfine Dubbing
Hackle: Dun Grizzly Whiting Saddle Hackle
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Water-based Head Cement
Abdomen Preparation:
1 - Cut as ½ as many 2” pieces of Ultra Chenille as the flies that you are going to tie for the upcoming hatch.
2 - Using a butane lighter, carefully taper both ends of the ultra chenille.
3 - Cut the 2” piece in half this will give you two abdomens.
Step - Tying Instructions
1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye.
2 - Optional; Tie in the rib wire and overwrap a threadbase to above the hook barb and return to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps
3 - Tie in the abdomen material. The abdomen should be 1½ to 2 times the hook shank length.
4 - Optional; Wrap the rib wire forward to 1 eye length behind the hook eye making 4 ~ 6 “ribs”.
5 - Tie in wing material and overwrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
6 - Cut the wing even with the end of the abdomen.
7 - Tie in the hackle with the shiny side forward.
8 - Dub a thin thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
9 - Wrap the hackle to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
10 - Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
11 - Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Jay Zimmerman's Hammer Handle

2009-05-10T19:52:00.008-06:00

THIS IS A "KILLER PIKE" PATTERN!!!

Hammer Handle
By: Jay Zimmerman
Hook: TMC 8089
Size: 2
Thread: Gudebrod GX2 and Rust Brown 6/0 UNI Thread
Dumbbell Eyes: 3/16” or 7/32” DAZL-Eyes™
Body: Pearl Ice Dub
Underwing: Golden Olive Spirit River Crystal Splash
Overwing: Black Unique Hair
Flanks: Olive Dyed Grizzly Whiting Utility Hackle
Hackle: Red Schlappen and
Brown Dyed Grizzly Whiting Eurohackle
Head: Rust Brown 6/0 UNI Thread
Head Cement: Hard as Hull (HaH)

Hook Preparation: Start the GX2 thread at appx 3/4” behind the hook eye and wrap a thread base to above the hook point. Move the thread to 7/8” from the hook eye or appx 1 hook eye length in front of the hook point. Tie in the dumbbell eyes on the top of the hook shank using figure 8 and locking wraps.

Tying Instructions
Prepare the hook per the above instructions

Tie in a 5”, “double” dubbing loop behind the dazl-eyes and apply the Pearl dubbing to the dubbing loop and twist tightly. Wrap the dubbing loop to in front of the dazl-eyes. Tie in and cut off excess. Pick out the dubbing using a piece of Velcro or a dubbing brush. The “double” dubbing loop is for protection from Pike teeth.

Turn the fly upside down and select a #2 pencil lead sized bunch of the underwing Crystal Splash. Tie in the underwing and apply HaH to the thread wraps for durability. Stagger-trim the underwing so the fly is 4 ½” long. All wing materials and flank feathers are tied in with the tips even with the underwing.

Tie in another short dubbing loop and dub over the underwing tie in point.

Tie in the over-wing, a #2 pencil lead sized bunch of the Unique Hair.

Tie in the flank feathers, 2 on each side.

Start the 6/0 thread behind the hook eye and wrap over the dubbing loop tie in point.

Hackle Preparation:
Fold the hackle around the feather quill, Atlantic Salmon or Classic Wet Fly Style.
Or hold the feather by the tip with the butt towards the hook bend. Strip the hackle fibers from the top of the quill. This leaves a “bare” quill on the hook shank when wrapped. Trim the tip of the hackle and tie in by the tip.

Wrap the red hackle 3~4 times while “stroking” the fibers back.

Wrap the Brown/Grizzly hackle 3~4 times while “stroking” the fibers back.

Wrap and whip-finish a large head.

Apply 2 or more coats of HaH to the head.

A Streamer Pattern For All Seasons

2009-05-03T21:09:00.007-06:00

Olive Wounded Minnow V1
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: TMC 5262 or TMC 5263
Size: 2 ~ 10
Thread: Olive Danville Flat Waxed Nylon
Body: Pearl Olive Estaz
Wing: Grizzly Olive Variant Rabbit Strip
Collar: Grizzly Olive Variant Cross-Cut Rabbit Strip
Trigger: Red 1/64 Holographic Mylar Motion
Head: Black Spirit River Cone Head
Optional: Zap-A-Gap CA+ and Water-Based Head Cement

Tying Instructions
Slide the cone on to the hook shank.
Wrap a threadbase behind the hook eye so that the cone head is tight on the hook shank. Cut off the thread. Optional, Zap-A-Gap the threadbase.
Move the cone to behind the hook eye over the threadbase.
Start the thread behind the cone and wrap a threadbase to above the hook barb.
Tie in the wing material above the hook barb. Cut the zonker tail to 1 ½ times the hook shank length.
Tie in the body material and wrap to appx 3 hook eye lengths behind the cone.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the wing material forward to appx 3 hook eye lengths behind the cone.
Cut the hair off of the zonker strip at the tie in point.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the trigger material (1 ~ 3 strands) on each side of the hook shank.
Tie in the collar material and make 2 wraps behind the cone and force the last collar wrap into the cone.
Tie in and cut off excess.
Trim the hair on the bottom the hook shank so the body shows.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Cut the trigger Mylar to length of your choice.
Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps.

It's Pike Time

2009-04-26T10:59:00.008-06:00

Pike Devil
By: Larry O Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #810 or Mustad 3366
Size: 2 ~ 3/0
Thread: White Size A Monocord
Flash: Pearl Krystal Flash
Wing: White Schlappen
Hackle: Red & White Cross Cut Rabbit Strips
Eyes: Black 3/8” Spirit River Deep Sea Eyes
Eye Pupils: Red or Pearl Stick-On or Molded EyesOptional Head Cement: Super Glue

Tyers Note:
Epoxy the eye pupils into the “Deep Sea” eye sockets for durability.
Fishing Note:
By using Spirit River Deep Sea Eyes this fly can be cast and fished easily with a 6 weight rod.

Tying Instructions
Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.
Tie in the eyes on top of the hook shank using “X and locking” wraps.
Optional; Super Glue the thread wraps to keep the eyes from turning on the hook shank.
Tie in 4~8 strands, doubled, of Krystal Flash on the top of the hook shank and overwrap to above the hook point.
Tie in 2~4 wing feathers on each side of the hook shank.
Tie in the feathers so that they splay out for better movement.
Tie in a Red cross cut rabbit strip and make 1~2 wraps. Tie in and cut off excess.
Tie in the rabbit strip so that when wrapped the hair will flow towards the rear
Tie in a White cross cut rabbit strip and wrap to behind the eyes and place between the eyes.
Tie in the rabbit strip so that when wrapped the hair will flow towards the rear
Cut the hair off of the hide at the tie in point and tie off in front of the eyes.
Wrap a substantial “nose” in front of the eyes and whip-finish.

Optional; Apply Super Glue to the whip-finish/nose.

A great caddis pupa pattern

2009-04-18T10:38:00.006-06:00

Click on picture for larger view.

This pattern is from the fertile mind of Jay Zimmerman at Front Range Anglers.

It is very EFFECTIVE!! Give it a try.

Eben Fine Caddis Pupa
By: Jay Zimmerman
Source: Jay Zimmerman
Hook: TMC 2487/Dai-Riki 135
Size: 14~16
Thread: Tan 6/0
Underbody: Olive Ostrich Herl (Large Barbules)
Overbody: Orange Medium D-Rib
Wingcase: Pheasant Tail barbules
Thorax: Dark Gray (Natural) Ostrich Herl
Head: 3/32 Black Tungsten Bead
Notes:
Once the Eben Fine Caddis Pupa tying steps are complete do the following:
Trim the Ostrich herl even with the D-rib on the back of the body.
Using a cigarette lighter carefully burn the Ostrich herl on the back so that the D-Rib is fully exposed on the back but the Ostrich Herl is still prominent on the bottom of the body.
Be extremely careful to not burn the hackle on the bottom and/or melt the vinyl D-rib!
Tying Instructions
Place the bead onto the hook shank.
Start the thread behind the bead.
Wrap a smooth thread base to the bottom of the hook bend.
Tie in the overbody and underbody materials.
Wrap the underbody material to 3 hook eye lengths behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
Spiral wrap the rib material in appx 6-7 segments to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
Wrap the D-Rib overbody forward over the underbody leaving a space between each wrap so the Ostrich Herl sticks up between the gaps.
Tie in the wingcase material on the top of the hook shank.
Tie in the thorax material and wrap forward to behind the bead. Tie in and cut off excess.
Pull the wingcase material forward over the thorax. Tie in and cut off excess.
Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
Optional; apply head cement to whip-finish.

Attention!!

2009-04-14T17:54:00.003-06:00

All of the fly patterns etc are public domain. Feel free to copy and use as you see fit.
If you do tie one of the fly patterns shown please email me at
LoJ.bugstuff@gmail.com
and let me know about your results.
Copy and enjoy!
THANX
LoJ

The 720 Vise™

2009-04-07T16:13:00.008-06:00

This past year I have been using the 720™ Vise invented by Vincent Su.
It has been an eye opening experience.

It has been a painful departure from my beloved Dyna-King Professional Vise that I have been using since it was first available to the general public. But I have survived and am now using the “720” almost exclusively. Now and again I take a trip down memory lane and tie a few flies on the “Professional”.

I have been fly-tying since 1965 and started with a Herter’s Type A vise. I then graduated to a Thompson “A” vise. I also acquired a Thompson “C” vise and a Thompson Rotary Model (?). Along the way I have acquired Regal, HMH and HMH Spartan vises. I have a discontinued Dyna-King (similar to the Voyager) and my top of the line “Professional”. The “Professional” vise was particularly hard to not use.

I have tried various brands of Rotary type vises but they just wouldn’t work for me (my problem, not the vises).

Just over a year ago Vincent Su demonstrated his “720” to the staff at Front Range Anglers. Being the tool junkie that I am I purchased one and have not regretted it one iota!

I tie quite a few parachute and para-loop/hackle stacker patterns and it is superb for this function. I have tied flies from size 26 up to size 2/0 flies without any problems other than not seeing too well. I tie the sizes 24 & 26 for a friend as I do not personally fish anything smaller than a 22. Can’t see well enough to tie them on!

The “720” has a multitude of functions and uses that are very conducive to tying better flies. I have used every function that this vise provides and although I may not have mastered them all I can get them to work with a minimal amount of effort. For my purposes this vise is well worth the purchase price which by the way, is very reasonable for the quality of the “720”.

I am anticipating, the arrival of the next generation of this vise. Vincent has made a few changes and upgrades to see the “new and improved” and the “old” versions visit the “720 Vise™” website.

You can visit this website by clicking on the “720 Vise Home Page” in the LINKS OF INTEREST section or get there via http://www.fly-wheel.net/.

I want to thank Vincent for adding me to the “720” pro-staff.
LoJ

The Mothers Day Hatch Is Fast Approaching Give This A Try

2009-04-04T22:00:00.003-06:00

Olive eeZee Caddis Emerger
By: Larry O Jurgens
Source: An adaptation of Tim Fox’s Poopah
Hook: TMC 2488
Size: 12 ~ 18
Thread: Olive UTC 70
Abdomen: Dark Olive Micro Ultra Chenille
Wing: Natural Gray/Brown CDC Fibers
Thorax: Peacock Herls
Head: Tying Thread
Optional: Water-based Head Cement

Abdomen Preparation:
1 - Cut as ½ as many 2” pieces of Ultra Chenille as the flies that you are going to tie for the upcoming hatch.
2 - Using a butane lighter carefully taper both ends of the ultra chenille.
3 - Cut the 2” piece in half this will give you two abdomens.

Step - Tying Instructions
1 - Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap threadbase to above the hook barb and return to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the thread wraps
2 - Tie in the abdomen material. The abdomen should be 1½ to 2 times the hook shank length.
3 - Tie in 2 ~ 3 CDC feathers, with the quill cut out, with 2 wraps and pull to length. The wing length should not extend beyond the abdomen. Tie in and cut off excess.
4 - Tie in 1 ~ 2 peacock herls and wrap to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
5 - Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.
6 - Optional; Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.

Hecoma Game Ranch

2009-04-02T13:02:00.005-06:00

Tim's Cut-Bow

Andy's Rainbow WOW!!

Hecoma Ranch 03/27/2009

Tim Mack, Andy Perez, Deward Yocum, Larry Jurgens accompanied by owner Fred Ferganchik had a successful day of fishing at Hecoma Game Ranch. The conditions could have been better as it was overcast, cold and muddy from the previous night’s snow storm. But we all know as the fishing picks up these inconveniences are all but forgotten.

Tim caught a nice Cut-Bow (check out the kype) on his version of an Orvis pattern.

Andy received honors of the day with this 8# plus rainbow caught on a non-commercial fly pattern.

Fred was his usual gracious self and as far as I am concerned the best host that I personally have encountered. It is a real joy to spend a day or more at his ranch.

For more information about Hecoma Game Ranch contact me via email at LoJ.bugstuff@q.com

LO Jurgens

Black Iron Bridge Midge V2 (don't forget midges)

2009-03-19T11:32:00.017-06:00

Black Iron Bridge Midge V2
By: Larry O Jurgens

Hook: TMC 501
Size: 20~22
Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths
Abdomen: Black Turkey Vane
Wing: White Float Vis
Thorax: Rusty Brown Superfine Dubbing
Hackle: Olive Dyed Grizzly
Head: Tying Thread

Optional: Loon Water Based Head Cement

Step - Tying Instructions
1 - Start the thread 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
2 - Tie in the turkey vane so that there will be a “standing rib”. A “vane” is on the opposite side of the biot on a primary wing feather or a fiber from a secondary wing feather.
3 - Overwrap to the hook bend. Return the thread to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
4 - Wrap the abdomen vane to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
5 - Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
6 - Tie in a sparse wing fold towards the hook bend. Tyers Note: The wing fibers should be 1/2 the desired wing thickness before tying in.
7 - Overwrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
8 - Tie in the hackle feather with the shiny side towards the hook eye.
The hackle is one size under-sized e.g., size 20 hook equals size 22 hackle.
9 - Dub a thorax to behind the hook eye leaving enough room for a whip-finish. Thickness is tyers choice.
10 - Wrap the hackle forward behind the hook eye leaving enough room for a whip-finish. Tie in and cut off excess.
11 - Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.
12 - Cut the wing even with the rear of the hook bend.
13 - Optional: Apply water-based head cement to the whip-finish.
14 - Optional: Trim the hackle on the bottom of the fly leaving very short “stubs” this allows the fly to sit flush on the water surface.

Iron Bridge Battis V11 (Baetis time is here)

2009-03-15T16:30:00.022-06:00

Iron Bridge Baetis V11
By: Larry Jurgens
Hook: Dai-Riki #280
Size: 18 ~ 20
Thread: Olive 8/0 UNI Thread
Tail: Medium Pardo Whiting Farms Coq de Leon Tailing Barbules
Wing: Dark Gray Hi-Vis™
Abdomen: #9 Baetis Nature’s Spirit Turkey Biot Quill “Vane”, See Note 1
Thorax: Blue Wing Olive Superfine Dubbing
Hackle: Olive Dyed Grizzly, See Note 2
Head: Tying Thread
Notes:
1- The vane is on the opposite side of the biot on a primary wing feather or a barbule from a secondary wing feather.
2 - The hackle is one size under-sized e.g., size 20 hook equals size 22 hackle.
3 - Trim the hackle on the bottom of the fly leaving "short" stubs, allowing the fly to sit flush on the water’s surface.
Step - Tying Instructions
1 - Start the thread at the 1/3 hook shank point.
2 - Tie in the tail material and overwrap to above the hook barb. Tail length equals hook shank length.
3 - Tie in the turkey vane so that there will be a “standing” rib when wrapped.
4 - Wrap the abdomen vane to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.
5 - Move the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
6 - Select a small bunch of the wing material, the “bunch” is ½ the finished wing size. Tie it in with appx 1” extending in front of the eye.
7 - Fold the front part of the wing towards the rear and over wrap to the 1/2 hook shank point. Trim the wing even with the back of the hook bend.
8 - Tie in the hackle feather 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.
9 - Dub a thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.
10 - Wrap the hackle forward thru the thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess
11 - Wrap and whip-finish a small head.
12 - Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.